An 'Elsewhere' Exists

The Valley that Speaks Mòcheno

The Valle dei Mòcheni, tucked away on two slopes between a mountain range, lies quietly, with the Fersina stream at its foot flowing gently at its base.  

The villages of Frassilongo (Garait), Roveda (Oachlait) and Fierozzo (Vlarotz) are perched on one mountainside above the narrow valley floor, while Palù del Fersina (Palai en Bersntol) sits the other. 

The forest stretches all the way to the pastures above the villages. A mere handful of houses, a smattering of rooftops. The beautiful St. Magdalene Church towers over Palai en Bersntol. 

In the small clearing in front of the village bar, where the road flattens out, voices echo. It is an ancient Bavarian language, spoken by settlers who came here in the Middle Ages. It is the Mòcheno language

Valle dei Mòcheni | © Daniele Lira

Mysterious words

Once you enter the Valle dei Mòcheni, you will hear words and sounds that come from afar. 

If you know German, greetings such as Guatmorng and Gèltsgott, or small talk, will sound somewhat familiar. 

Some words are the result of contamination over time between the ancient Bavarian German language, Italian, and the Trentino dialect. 

During his time in the Valle dei Mòcheni, Austrian author Robert Musil was so impressed by the Mòcheni language that he considered its words, some of which he found mysterious and magical, to be a gateway to another world.  

Valle dei Mòcheni | © Daniele Lira

Living the forest

Lem der bòlt means 'living the forest'.  

The Mòcheni people have always lived in close contact with the woods. They foraged for mushrooms, went hunting and took walks to reach the mountain peaks, as well as collecting wood.  

The woods also provided the roofing – s dòch – of the maso – heff made of sturdy larch shingles de schintln – cut straight and knot-free, and fixed with beams and stones to prevent them from being blown away by wind and snow. The 'dalmedre' shoes - kospm - were also made of wood with larch or spruce soles, with hobnails to help them grip ice and grassy slopes. 

Valle dei Mocheni -Fierozzo | © ChristianKerber

A giving place

The forest has always been and continues to be a giving place, a lived-in space, capable of regenerating itself and providing man with vital materials. These materials are still evident in the dwellings of yesteryear — the masi, that preserve the region's traditional rural architecture.

Here in the Valle dei Mòcheni, details still reveal the community's profound connection to the forest. They tell of industriousness and imagination, and of a language that preserves the memory of those who, centuries ago, found their own 'elsewhere' in these mountains.

Valle dei Mòcheni

Between Myth and Reality
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Published on 05/12/2025