Climbing garden Sottosassa - Predazzo

The fascinating Sottosassa climbing garden, near Predazzo (Val di Fiemme) extends along the mountainous right-hand side of the Travignolo torrent

Climbing garden Sottosassa - Predazzo
Climbing garden Sottosassa - Predazzo
Climbing garden Sottosassa - Predazzo
Section A
Section B
Section C
Section D

Coordinates: 46.30703911663, 11.650958061218
Area: Val di Fiemme
Mountain range: Lagorai
Locality: Predazzo
Altitude: 1093m
Orientation: south-west
Bolting: excellent, permanent
Type of rock: porphyry
Type of rock face: vertical
Period recommended: spring, autumn, summer
Grade: 5b - 7c
Number of routes: 55
Approach time: 2 mins

DESCRIPTION

The fascinating Sottosassa climbing garden, near Predazzo (Val di Fiemme) extends along the mountainous right-hand side of the Travignolo torrent, which has eroded the porphyry sides of the Travignolo valley over the course of time and given the rocks on this climbing areain its highly evocative setting their characteristic and unusual shape. The climbing wall is just a short walk from the torrent on a porphyry face featuring clean fissures and vertical slabs as smooth as a snooker table, which require chimney and fissure climbing techniques and toe and finger strength and resistance. The climbing wall was opened 30 years ago and has therefore been a victim of all the various fashions, trends and excesses of the various phases rock climbing went through as it developed. This is why, if you look closely you can still see signs of lines of expansion bolts for "artificial" (aid) climbing or a measured sequence of holes drilled to get over a smooth, apparently inaccessible wall (things that today would make even a beginner cringe!). Sottosassa however offers a large number of interesting and unusual as well as demanding routes which, along with the wonderful setting (the Travignolo valley with its mountain torrent is definitely a must), make this climbing garden a favourite destination for rock climbers. The wall is divided into 4 sections, the most important of which is Section C "Ombre Rosse".

GETTING TO THE CLIMBING GARDEN

Take the SS48 to Val di Fiemme (Ora) from the Adige valley, the SS612 if you are coming from the Val di Cembra, and the SP71 if you are coming from Valfloriana, or cross over the SS50 if coming from Primiero - Passo Rolle. From Predazzo briefly follow the Passo Rolle road (SS50) and turn off near a large open space on the right (often used as a timber depot). Follow the forestry road (on the right) heading towards Val Travginolo (follow campsite signs). Pass the campsite, cross the stone bridge and leave your vehicle in the car park on the left. Proceed on foot along the dirt track that leads into the Valle del Travignolo. At the first junction, stay on the forestry road (do not go up to the right) and after crossing a characteristic stone bridge, bear right following the signs for Sottosassa. The sections are arranged in order starting with "Section A". For section B ("fate"), you will need to cross the torrent.

PERIOD RECOMMENDED
April to September. Although it faces south, south-west, the climbing garden generally speaking benefits from the cool air rising from the luxuriant wood and the vegetation covering the mountains that rise just in front of it, though in particularly hot and humid spells, it is better to avoid the middle of the day. The climbing garden is also enjoyable in spring and autumn when the weather is warm.

SECTION A

1

Uff la lai

6a+

30m

2

Oh Jesus

7a+

35m

3

Aspettando la luna

6b+

33m

4

Crazy dreams

6c+

30m


SECTION B: oltre il torrente

1

Desy dog

6a

30m

2

Via delle fate

6a+

28m

3

Via delle fate L2

6c+

32m

4

Diedro delle fate

6c+

30m

5

Zed

7b

30m

6

Sfinge

6c

30m

7

Nini

6b

30m


SECTION C: OMBRE ROSSE

1

Queen

5b

10m

2

King

5b

10m

3

Ma ciao

6a

10m

4

Il fascino inutile

5c

15m

5

Gnomo

5c

15m

6

Stort

6a+

20m

7

Stirata

6a+

20m

8

spigolando

7a+

20m

9

Ti tasi

7b

20m

10

sauron

6a

20m

11

Felce

6a+

20m

12

Ombre rosse

6c+

25m

13

Il diedro

6b+

30m

14

La rossa

7b+

30m

15

Deroc

6a

30m

16

Boce del paes

6a+

22m

17

Leviti crack

6a

22m

18

Diedro Gabrielli

6a

20m

19

Erbe

6b

28m

20

Super motard

7c

26m

21

Collezzioni di attimi

6a

30m

22

Licheni nel cemento

6c

30m

23

Tinf 1

5a

20m

24

Tinf 2

5a

30m

25

L’ombra del vento

5c

30m

26

Suspiria

7a+

30m

27

Il capitan

7a+

30m

28

Bohr maschin

7a

30m

29

Aiuola

6a

27m

30

L’erba del vicino

6a+

27m

31

Alice nel paese ...

6b

30m

32

Thor

?

30m

33

Cocoon

6b

25m

34

Senza nome

7c

25m

35

jampi

6c

25m


SECTION D: LEONARDO

1

Cita

6a+

10m

2

Deba

7b+

13m

3

Dani

7bc

15m

4

Claudia

7a

20m

5

Leonardo

6a

20m

6

Neanderthal

5c

20m

7

Cordone ombelicale

6c

20m

8

Macao

6b

20m

9

Paricilium

6b

20m

10

Il diedro

6a

19m

11

Arin

6c

19m

12

onomao

6a

18m

13

Lillo

7a

20m