Stenico Castle at the time of hunger

From place of administration of justice to summer residence of Prince-Bishops

Perfectly preserved, Stenico Castle stands elegantly on the top of a hill, nestled in the vigorous green of fields and forests, guarding and overlooking an entire valley. 

We are on the western borders of Trentino, in the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve “Alpi Ledrensi e Judicaria”, an environment rich in biodiversity and history, the result of the close relationship between man and nature over the centuries. A place that, although so distant and difficult to reach, was the desire and longing of the Most Serene Republic of Venice. One only has to wander through the rooms of the castle to recognise the traces... 

 

Castel Stenico in the Valli Giudicarie 

It might seem that in places like these, rural havens with a life that flows peaceful and serene, marked as it is by natural cycles, the presence of a lord, imposing his laws, is not even necessary. And, in fact, very often the Trentino valleys provided for their own self-government, for centuries through community rules, interpreted by heads of families gathered in assemblies.  The actual feudal lord was often not there, or at least, his presence was rarely felt.  

In the case of Stenico, located in a mountain valley far from the capital, the Prince-Bishop administered justice through the Captain of the Valli Giudicarie. Tributes, on the other hand, were collected by two tenant farmers, always under the rule of the Prince-Bishop.  

Over the centuries, the Castle of Stenico has hosted soldiers, Prince-Bishops, captains, yes politically and legally very active, but it has also been the summer residence of the Prince-Bishops, testifying to the fact that life probably really did flow very, very quietly here. 

Stenico Castle and the Hunger Tower

Stenico Castle of the Hunger Tower

There remains the eerie presence inside the manor of the Bozone Tower, which guarded the prison. The place was also called the “Hunger Tower”, because it is said that those condemned to death were thrown into a dark and inaccessible room, closed from above by a heavy grating, and left there to die of starvation.  
 
During the visit, this dualism between place of power and control and residence is clearly perceived: the original military character of the castle is reflected in the high walls, the inaccessible windows, and the austere and dark appearance of the Judgement Hall, where the Captain of the Giudicarie exercised his power from the top of a podium, in a dominant position with respect to the condemned.  

Inside the castle, on the other hand, many parts were gradually transformed, starting in the 15th century, into elegant residences with a Renaissance flavour.  

We find loggias softened by stone columns, mullioned windows, some of them with triforium and a more “Italian” look. After all, the government was stable, not subject to external attacks at the time of Bishop Johannes Hinderbach in the late 15th century. Later, in the 16th century, during the rule of Bernardo Clesio, the castle became a summer residence for the bishops and was also enriched with frescoes, large halls and places for receptions. 

Stenico Castle and the Hunger Tower

Stenico Castle of Judgement

The presence of the strict Bishop Johannes Hinderbach (1418 - 1486) can be seen in the Palazzo Vecchio, especially in the Sala dei Putti. Hinderbach was of German origin, but had studied law in Italy, in Padua. Very ambitious, he sought to become Bishop of Bressanone, but had to “settle” for being elected by the Cathedral Chapter as Prince-Bishop of Trent, only to see the Cardinal’s crimson later in life. He was dedicated to his task, he was cultured and brilliant, morally uncompromising, and vehemently defended the Catholic ideals of his time.  

He is famous, in particular, for having dealt, also in contrast to the positions of the Pope, with the trial of the Jews for the murder of little Simon of Trent, an episode emblematic of the fears and contrasts of the time, and one that has long remained in the memory of the people of Trento. 
He strongly feared the Turks on the borders of Europe, who were seen as a danger to Christianity.  
An example of these ideas can be found in the castle, strangely depicted in a chandelier made of deer antlers, where a female figure dominates triumphantly over a Turk who seems to be succumbing in battle, and then a cherub, a lion, strongly symbolic and, to be honest, also somewhat disturbing figures.

Stenico Castle and the Hunger Tower

The rooms that recall the memory of Bishop Bernardo Clesio (1485 -1539) are perhaps more “commonplace”, from the kitchen, to the Bishop’s room, to the flower room.   
Despite the gentler appearance of this part of the castle, which Bernardo Clesio had also wanted for other manors of Trentino, first and foremost the Castello del Buonconsiglio, the bishop is not remembered for being a very kind-hearted ruler. 

Even more ambitious than Hinderbach, councillor to Archduke Ferdinand of Habsburg, well-versed in the political mechanisms of the Germanic Empire, a friend of Italian Renaissance figures such as Pietro Bembo, the Medici and Gonzaga families, but also a friend of Erasmus of Rotterdam. Clesio almost attained the papal throne. He had studied law in Verona and Bologna, and was truly a man involved in two worlds and two cultures, fighting against Lutheranism and preparing the great Council of Trent. He was a determined man, perhaps even too harsh, especially during the suppression of the Rustic Wars, in which he defeated and severely punished the leaders of the revolt of 1525.  
A man of power without a doubt. 

Stenico Castle and the Hunger Tower

Castel Stenico of the Rio Bianco

The castle is imposing and rich in history, furnishings, paintings and frescoes, but one can certainly feel the distance between the ruling caste and the people who supported it.  

The walls of a massive, majestic, ambitious castle where Clesio had himself immortalised no less than next to Emperor Charlemagne, flying Pindarically through the centuries, the emblem and memory. 

But if you look out of the castle windows, the landscape is peaceful and the Rio Bianco waterfall cascades indifferently and frothily through the green foliage. You see it as you approach. You hear it roar, call out and expand itself to teach you that life, despite everything, be it hunger, glory or history, continues undaunted. 

Castel Stenico

Castel Stenico

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Published on 18/09/2024