ROOM WITH A VINEYARD VIEW
Trentino has the perfect proposal for your autumn weekends: a chance to experience the rituals of the grape harvest up close and learn about the stories, traditions and culture of winemaking in the mountains.
The wineries of Trentino are special places where you can discover the stories of the region's winemakers and taste great tipples. In Trentino, agriculture has forged a strong bond between mankind and the environment, creating a virtuous relationship that has given rise to a diverse ecosystem of carefully tended landscapes dotted with small vineyard plots. There is a selection of wineries in Trentino that are open to visitors, but some also offer the unique experience to stay overnight.
Tracing the course of the Adige river, the ideal trip starts in Vallagarina, the homeland of Marzemino, the red grape variety praised by Mozart himself, and specifically from Avio, where the agriturismo (farm stay) of Cantine Vallarom is open to guests above the caneve (where the wine is stored). Ever since it first opened its doors, the Vallarom winery has stood out from the pack for its willingness to experiment with organic approaches, both in the vineyard and in the cellar. A more environmentally friendly take on winemaking, with more sustainable and conscious management that has led to varied and balanced production over the years, something which is also reflected in the hospitality offered by the agriturismo. A quiet and relaxing farm consisting of traditional rural buildings, surrounded by vineyards on all sides, the agriturismo is open all year round, with three exclusive rooms named 'Flufus', 'Marzemino' and 'Pinot nero' in honour of the company's three flagship varieties. Inside, simple furnishings and sophisticated details are complemented by the warm hospitality of Barbara and Filippo Scienza.
Between Rovereto and Trento, beyond the magnificent bastion of Castel Beseno, Cantina Salizzoni can be found in the small village of Calliano. The company, situated in the heart of Vallagarina wine country, was founded in 1986 by Valter, a man with a passion for cultivating his fields and producing a wine that faithfully reflected the reality of the region. The company's five hectares of vineyards now extend across the municipalities of Calliano, Nomi and Isera and are planted with both double and single pergolas. The cellar is housed in the ancient Palazzo Valentini, dating back to the eighteenth century, where the wine is produced and aged in small oak barrels. The emblem of the company, naturally, is the Marzemino, the red that allowed Vallagarina to sweetly scale incredible heights thanks to its elegance and uniqueness. Since 1988, the winery has supplemented its offering with an agriturismo that offers tourists the opportunity to stay overnight among the vineyards. There are six rooms available for bed and breakfast. Halfway between the cities of Trento and Rovereto, the agriturismo also has plenty to offer cycling enthusiasts, as it is located on the Adige cycle path. Of course, visitors can sample the vineyard's wines, accompanied by platters of local Trentino delicacies. For an even more enjoyable and relaxing experience, there is also a relaxation area in the garden with sun loungers, tables and a hot tub; the ideal place to soak up the last warm rays of autumn with friends or family.
Heading further north beyond the city of Trento, the Cobei agriturismo, attached to the 'Eredi di Cobelli Aldo' winery, is situated on a scenic terrace between Valle dell'Adige and Valle di Cembra. This area is home to Trentino's finest white wines, and the winery offers Gewürztraminer and 'Sorni Bianco' Chardonnay, both Trento DOC appellation wines, as well as Nosiola Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT and a classic method sparkling wine aged on lees for 50 months. Set back and secluded, the winery and the agriturismo has become a wonderful wellness getaway among the vineyards.
Sorni di Lavis sits on the verdant slopes of Monte Corona, here there is a family-run winery with its new 'bed & break wine', featuring five rooms each detailed to perfection, plus it offers excellent breakfasts and brunches amid the Trentino scenery. Maso Panizza di Sopra has become the silent guardian of the vineyards, and has remained at the heart of the company over generations. Here, visitors can experience first hand a day in the life of a winemaker. Inside the farmhouse, it is worth visiting the tasting room located in the family's old private cellar, the 'Caneva Fonda', which has been transformed from an underground cave into a room full of memories, a magical place where friends and family can bond over wine.
Staying north of Trento, in a scenic location overlooking the Rotaliana plain, described by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe as 'the most beautiful vineyard in Europe', Maso Grener can be found in Pressano. We are in the Avisian Hills, where the distinctive red earth of the soil, formed over 240 million years ago, makes the terrain ideal for wine production. Located within the winery's extensive vineyard, cultivated with Chardonnay and Sauvignon grapes and partly with Pinot Noir grapes, Maso Grener (est. 1999) offers not only stunning scenery all year round, but also a superb starting point to discover and appreciate the region's food and wine specialities. The agriturismo has six rooms as well as an annexe called 'Il rustico' for four people, restored in line with the principles of sustainable housing. At Maso Grener, guests can also enjoy the relaxation area with its sauna and Turkish bath, but the highlight has to be the breakfast room, which offers a panoramic view of the vineyards and the Paganella mountain peak.
Over 40 years ago, Fiorentino and Mario's passion for wine and their bond with Valle di Cembra led the duo to open Cantina 'Pojer e Sandri', a focal point for the Trentino wine movement. Situated on the edge of the award-winning winery, Maso Besleri is envisaged as an oasis of tranquillity, the perfect place to spend the night after rounding off the evening with their organic wines or with the aroma of their spirits lingering on your palate. In the heart of Val Bona, running perpendicular to Valle di Cembra, Pojer and Sandri's first act was to reclaim eight hectares of vineyards to bring to life their Besler Biank and Besler Ross wines. They subsequently restored the old farmsteads, turning them into a distinctive cellar used to age wine and fruit vinegars, as well as five tastefully furnished mini-apartments. The pair built a compact outdoor amphitheatre for small events and theatrical productions. The infrastructure is a model of understated style, designed for those looking to savour forgotten moments of bucolic bliss in a still and uncontaminated world.