Short stories of great passion
A journey in Trentino behind the scenes in the world of craft beer
With its specialty and micro breweries, the Trentino beer scene combines a focus on sources with the enthusiasm of all its players.
Cerevisia malorum divina medicina” (Paracelsus).
A description of beer as a divine medicine in Latin: this drink, with its millennia of history, has recently become a niche phenomenon with a young, trendy image, which has taken root even here amidst our mountains. It grows in the fertile soil of peasant tradition, in which the role of master brewer is often the same as that of head of the family, brewer and host. From the rediscovery of traditional craft production methods to the careful selection of raw ingredients, this art is the culmination of many stories, told through the character and taste that every brewer brings to their own products, in an increasingly sophisticated mixture of energy, passion, and tradition. So let’s see beer in a new light: a modern drink that is never dull, young, versatile and unfailingly innovative, capable of telling the tale of a whole territory in its aroma and in the infinite nuances of its taste.
Lupinus is a top-fermenting beer flavoured with Anterivo Lupin, an indigenous legume variety which was once used as an alternative to coffee. The brainchild of Stefano Gilmozzi, brewer and founder of the Birra di Fiemme brewery, the idea for this beer came about because Anterivo coffee is so bitter that it used to be mixed with barley coffee. From here came the inspiration to use it in place of hops.
Sour beers from Boutique de la Bot
Lipa Porca [Pig IPA], Single Bot, and Impombera are the intriguing names of some of the beers from the Asso di Coppe project launched by Fabio (Bio) and Nicola (‘Noc), the well-known founders of the BioNoć craft brewery in Primiero, along with their friend Nicola Coppe, a home brewer with a passion for unusual fermentations. The beers are unpasteurised to prevent a loss of aroma, unfiltered so as not to detract from the body, and refermented in the bottle to guarantee perfect preservation. Finally, the beer is perfected in barriques, as well as by the addition of fresh fruit (raspberries, apricots, cherries).
Nerobrigante, a legendary rogue and villain
According to legend, the oldest cellar in the Maso Nero farmhouse in the Avisiane hills was home to outlandish characters who would pester passing travellers. One of these, a harmless and inept highwayman in those days, has now decided to redeem himself through his skilful work with malt, yeast and hops. “Nerobrigante” is a brewery belonging to Rudy Zeni. Coming from a family of winemakers, he has dedicated himself to the art of beer-making with oenological flair, knowingly adding yeast mixes to add aroma to his amber beer Fra’ Diavolo [Brother Devil] and using refermentation in the bottle for his wheat beer Zio Ulrich [Uncle Ulrich], a skill borrowed from the traditional method of producing sparkling wines.
Garba, Werra and Fara: Arimanni beers
In medieval times, Italy’s arimanni were free men so devoted to the land that they chose to obey the lords who entrusted it to them, defending it with their lives. The Arimanni embodied love and respect for the land, just as the land itself, when it receives love and respect, repays it with high-quality raw ingredients. Even today, this bond with the land is the main ingredient used uncompromisingly by Birrificio degli Arimanni in Garba, Werra and Fara, its three unfiltered and unpasteurised craft beers.
Pure spring water and wholesome berries for an anti-ageing beer
Goji is an amber beer produced by Pejo Craft Brewery with its raw ingredient, the famous soft spring waters with low levels of Calcium, Sulphates and Chlorides. Added to this are fresh Goji berries, grown organically amid the mountains of the Val di Pejo in the heart of the Stelvio National Park. Enhanced by high-quality malts and hops refermented in the bottle, with fruity scents and a light, refreshing taste, it finishes with characteristic delicate bitterness on the palate, typical of Goji berries, which are famous as a natural antioxidant.
At km 8 of provincial road SP73 , hops live side by side with wine!
Km8 is the name of a small new beer company which produces top-fermenting beers refermented in the bottle, strictly unfiltered and unpasteurised, with high-quality ingredients from the lands and mountains of Trentino. Not only are the hops grown in the valley, but so is the wine must which is added to a special seasonal line of beers, produced in autumn. IGAs (Italian Grape Ales) are beers in which fermentation is spontaneously triggered by the yeasts naturally present on the skin of the grapes, before the must from wine varieties (Groppello di Revò and Müller Thurgau from the Valle di Cembra) is added. Together, the result is to enhance the style and the aromas, which are unusual for both beers and wine.