On the Trail of the Council

In Trento, through churches and museums

Some events are destined to change the face of cities forever. They do not come by chance, but are the culmination of a growth path that began some time ago. This was the case when, from 1545 to 1563 Trento hosted the 19th Ecumenical Council of the Catholic Church. It was a page of history immortalised as the “Trentino Renaissance”, when Trento was a crossroads of Italian and Central European art.

A Renaissance city in the heart of the Alps. An idea that became reality thanks to two illustrious figures, the prince bishop Bernardo Clesio and his successor, Cristoforo Madruzzo, who continued the work of urban and architectural renewal undertaken by Clesio, sparing no effort or resources.

This huge commitment has borne fruits we can still admire today while walking through the historic city centre, perhaps starting from the Cathedral (Duomo).

Trento Cathedral

The history of the Council of Trento could only have as its main stage the Cathedral of Saint Vigilius, the city’s Duomo. Its naves hosted the solemn sessions of the Council, including the opening one on 13 December, 1545.

But this was not the only grandiose event that the Cathedral witnessed. On 3 February, 1508 Maximilian I of Habsburg, on his way to Rome to be proclaimed Emperor by the Pope, found his way blocked by the Venetians, and decided to be crowned in the Trento Cathedral. Obviously, the Pope could not officiate but that honour went to the Chancellor, Cardinal Matthäus Lang von Wellenburg.

The Trento Cathedral is a treasure chest, and, for sure, there are certainly three elements that are worthy of special notice. The large 18th century Baroque canopy, which contains the relics of Saint Vigilius in an urn and was modelled on the one created by Bernini in Saint Peter’s in Rome. The chapel of the Crucifix, which houses the wooden crucifix (early 16th century) in the presence of which the decrees of the Council were promulgated on 4 December 1563, after eighteen years of discussions.

The third treasure is hosted in the basement of the Cathedral, where the ancient early Christian Basilica of Saint Vigilius once stood. The original basilica, of which only fragments remain, dates back to the end of the 4th century AD. It was built to provide burial for the saints Sisinio, Martirio and Alessandro, killed in Val di Non by pagans on 29 May 397.

Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, Trento

The footsteps of the Council lead to the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, which hosted the preparatory congregations of its third and final phase, from April 1562 to December 1563. To this end, a wooden stand was set up in the nave, as documented by paintings and engravings.

The church was built by order of Prince Bishop Bernardo Clesio between 1520 and 1524, and boasts the tallest bell tower in the city, 53 metres high.

The interior houses interesting works of art, such as the organ chancel, created by the Vicenza sculptors and bronze workers Vincenzo and Girolamo Grandi, the large doors – formerly part of the Cathedral organ – painted by Giovanni Maria Falconetto in 1508, and the altarpieces by Giovanni Battista Moroni, Pietro Ricchi, Francesco Unterperger and Giambettino Cignaroli.

Trinity Church

This Church is located in the historic centre, slightly secluded, in the Borgo Nuovo neighborhood. It immediately impresses with its redundant Baroque façade, decorated with garlands, festoons of flowers and fruit, drapes and two angel heads.

It is the last Church to visit in order to retrace the footsteps of the Council, because it is precisely from here that everything began. Indeed, the initial procession of the Council, headed for the Cathedral, set out from this spot at 9:30 am of 13 December, 1545. Four cardinals, twenty-five bishops and archbishops and five generals of religious orders participated in the event.

Diocesan Museum of Trento

To wrap up your journey to the sites of the Council, return to Piazza del Duomo to cross the threshold of Palazzo Pretorio, home to the Museo Diocesano Tridentino.

Once you cross the threshold, you retrace the history of the Council, admiring the works of art that told its story, and immersing yourself in the atmosphere of the time. It is not just a museum hosting precious works of sacred art. It’s a treasure chest of stories - from the account of the Council to the dark story of Simonino.

We highly recommend two gems: the corridor overlooking the cathedral and a visit to Torre di Piazza, to see the city from a privileged point of view that invites you to look far away, towards the mountains.

That’s exactly where you’re about to head, because the next stage of the journey through the churches of Trentino takes you to the eastern Dolomites, between Primiero, Val di Fiemme and Val di Fassa.