Via Ferrata Ottorino Marangoni - Monte Albano
Fixed rope route • Garda Trentino and Valle di Ledro
Via Ferrata Ottorino Marangoni - Monte Albano
<p>Created in 1976 by the CAI-SAT section of Mori, it is one of the most difficult and spectacular climbing routes in the Alps. </p>
<p>The only ferrata outside the Sarca/Garda valley axis but, given its proximity, is historically one of the most popular bolted routes with visitors to Garda Trentino. The first via ferrata in the modern style, created in 1976, has been renowned for years for its technical challenges and exposure.</p> <p>The short, easy access route, proximity to roads, and its aspect which mean it can be climbed all year round, have made it a favourite with hundreds of thousands of ascents over the years, making the rock smooth and increasing the level of difficulty. So in 2014 SAT undertook to overhaul the route, adding many new holds and generally facilitating the users. It is nonetheless still physically challenging on certain sections. The ferrata is noted for its succession of exposed traverses with a bird’s eye view over the village of Mori.</p> <p>As in the case of Pisetta and Dain Piccolo, the first metres of the ascent have been deliberately left difficult so that users are aware of the effort required and have a chance to retreat before committing to the ascent.</p>
recommended routeFixed rope route
· Trentino OpenVia Ferrata Ottorino Marangoni - Monte Albano
Garda Trentino Verified partner
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Via Ferrata Monte Albano, with the view over MoriPhoto: Ralf Stute - www.via-ferrata.de, Garda Trentino
Created in 1976 by the CAI-SAT section of Mori, it is one of the most difficult and spectacular climbing routes in the Alps.
The only ferrata outside the Sarca/Garda valley axis but, given its proximity, is historically one of the most popular bolted routes with visitors to Garda Trentino. The first via ferrata in the modern style, created in 1976, has been renowned for years for its technical challenges and exposure.
The short, easy access route, proximity to roads, and its aspect which mean it can be climbed all year round, have made it a favourite with hundreds of thousands of ascents over the years, making the rock smooth and increasing the level of difficulty. So in 2014 SAT undertook to overhaul the route, adding many new holds and generally facilitating the users. It is nonetheless still physically challenging on certain sections. The ferrata is noted for its succession of exposed traverses with a bird’s eye view over the village of Mori.
As in the case of Pisetta and Dain Piccolo, the first metres of the ascent have been deliberately left difficult so that users are aware of the effort required and have a chance to retreat before committing to the ascent.
Author’s recommendation
This via ferrata is exposed to the south: in summer, avoid it when it's too hot or start the route early in the morning.
Garda Trentino Verified partner
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
Safety Tips
Choose the route based on your actual psycho-physical preparation, technical ability, and experience. Always assess the conditions of crowding, weather, the state of the fixed equipment, and the route. The final decision and responsibility for the passability of the route lie entirely with the person who decides to undertake it. If you are unsure, seek information or rely on qualified professionals.
- Only do the via ferrata if you are reasonably fit and in excellent health.
- Use proper safety gear (helmet, harness, ferrata kit with double selflocking carabiners and energy absorbing systems). Put on your helmet once you get near to the wall in case of rock falls.
- Check the weather report and do not undertake the via ferrata ascent in adverse weather conditions, especially in the event of a thunderstorm threat.
- The risk of rock falls increases if there are others on the via ferrata or with wind or rain.
- During progression always keep both carabiners clipped onto the safety cable and when you pass the anchor points make sure at least one carabiner is clipped on to the metal cable.
- Only one person may be on any length of cable between two anchor points.
- Always check route conditions; in winter you may find snow and ice, making progress very dangerous.
- Do not do the via ferrata alone: if you have an accident nobody will be able to call for help.
Emergency telephone number 112.
The information on this chart is subject to inevitable variations, so this means that none of the indications are absolute. It is not entirely possible to avoid giving inexact or imprecise information, given how quickly environmental and weather conditions can change. For this reason, we decline any responsibility for changes which the user may encounter. In any case, the hiker is advised to check the conditions of the places, environment and weather before setting out.
Tips and suggestions
Via ferratas are no joke – cables, ladders and dizzying views demand the right gear and know-how. Count on our via ferrata specialists: alpine guides, rentals and shops with everything you need to climb safely.Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
Mori is connected to the centers of Garda Trentino by the intercity bus line 332 (Riva del Garda - Rovereto - Trento).
Up-to-date information on timetables and routes.
Get Timetable to destination
Directions
Mori is about 15 km from Riva del Garda. You can reach it via the state road 240 in the direction of Rovereto.
Find out how to reach Garda Trentino.
Parking
Free parking close to the middle school in Mori (Via Giovanni XXIII).
Coordinates
Author’s map recommendations
Garda Trentino TREKKING Map – Available in the info points of Garda Trentino (Riva del Garda, Arco, Torbole sul Garda, Ledro, Comano Terme)
Equipment
You need to wear the right clothing and take the proper gear when you go hiking in the mountains. Even on relatively short easy outings make sure to take all you need so you don't run into trouble if things take an unexpected turn, for example a storm blows up or you have a sudden drop in energy levels.
What should you absolutely have with you on a via ferrata tour?
- rucksack (25/30L capacity) for a day trip
- technical mountain clothing
- hiking boots with Vibram or similar sole
- via ferrata gear
- harness
- helmet
- gloves
- pickaxe and crampons (when necessary)
- a length of rope (recommended)
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
