Climbing garden Val Algone

The conveniently situated, cool Val Algone climbing garden has now become a classic for sport climbing in the Giudicarie valleys

Climbing garden Val Algone
Climbing garden Val Algone
Climbing garden Val Algone
Climbing garden Val Algone
Climbing garden Val Algone
Climbing garden Val Algone
Climbing garden Val Algone
SECTION C
SECTION A
SECTION B

Coordinates: 46.083709382304, 10.809956789017
Area:
Giudicarie valleys
Mountain range:
Brenta Dolomites
Locality:
Ragoli - Stenico
Altitude:
723m
Orientation:
east, north-east
Bolting:
excellent, permanent
Type of rock:
limestone
Type of rock face:
vertical, overhanging
Period recommended:
spring, early autumn, summer
Grade:
4c - 7b
Number of routes:
55
Approach time:
1 min

DESCRIPTION

The conveniently situated, cool Val Algone climbing garden has now become a classic for sport climbing in the Giudicarie valleys. The climbing area, which stands alongside the Rio Algone riverbed, offers a sequence of really beautiful pitches on a highly characteristic limestone featuring large holes, short roofs, dihedrals and edges.
Its location in a narrow ravine and easterly orientation make it the ideal spot for climbing in hot weather when you want somewhere cool, while the lush woodland and calm Rio Algone river (often dry) also make the climbing garden an ideal spot for families.
The climbing area is divided into three sections for "editorial" convenience only. It is in fact a single wall that extends northwards from the riverbed into the wood with unclear divisions. Section A stands on the riverbed; Section B, in other words, the middle part, slants from the riverbed towards the wood; and Section C is to the right just above the wood and features a pronounced dihedral.
The level of difficulty is around grade 6 though there are also a few good 7a/b.
There are also some extremely interesting routes for beginners (grades 4b to 5b).

GETTING TO THE CLIMBING GARDEN

There are two ways:

1.
Follow the SS237 "del Caffaro" as far as Ponte Arche and proceed towards Tione. After a long sequence of tunnels, turn right and cross the bridge over the River Sarca and carry on to Ragoli. In the village centre, turn right again and take the road for Coltura - Stenico. Go through the centre of Coltura and a few hundred metres further on you will see the Coltura climbing garden. Carry for about another kilometre and turn into the valley which rises above (signposted). Climb the valley for about 3 km until you find two clearings on the right close to a rock wall (100m after the clearing there is a Madonna statue on the right). Park and cross over the riverbed and the climbing garden is just on the other side (47km from Trento).

2.
Follow the SS237 "del Caffaro" almost as far as Ponte Arche. Just before the village, turn off the SS237 and right onto the "Ponte dei Serbi" following the signs for Molveno, Andalo. You will soon reach Villa in Banale where you bear left for Stenico (signposted).
From Stenico (main square) bear left and proceed along the panoramic Ragoli-Stenico road until you reach the entrance to Val Algone (signposted). Climb the valley for about 3 km until you find two clearings on the right close to a rock wall (100m after the clearing there is a Madonna statue on the right). Park and cross over the riverbed and the climbing garden is just on the other side (43km from Trento).

PERIOD RECOMMENDED

Afternoons in summer and in warm weather when the wall is in the shade. Conditions are also excellent in late spring and early autumn. The climbing garden is impracticable in winter.

SECTION A (LEFT)

1

Piccole pesti 

5a

12m

2

Rien Va Plus 

6c

16m

3

Transgenica 

6c

19m

4

Tlan 

7a

19m

5

L'unico vizio de me fiol 

6b

15m

6

Tuc Tuc 

6a

15m

7

Il nido del ragno 

6b+

25m

8

Tolleranza zero 

7a

25m

9

Nee 

6c

25m

10

Ayuttaya 

6b

25m

11

Snoopy Bar Bondo 

6b

25m

12

Damela Tomela 

6b

20m

13

Il faggio 

6a

20m

14

Batti il tuo tempo 

6a

20m

15

Per fottere il potere 

6a+

20m

16

Test 

5c

20m

17

Arbeit macht strac 

5b

20m


SECTION B (CENTRE)

1

Tiro Mancino 

6a

18m

2

Eruzione cutanea 

6b

19m

3

Deja Vu 

6b

19m

4

Lo scorpione 

6c

20m

5

Stir it up 

6c

20m

6

BKK 

6c+

20m

7

Via dei Talebani 

6a+

18m

8

Dolphinger 

7a

18m

9

Nefertiti 

7a

18m

10

Jah 

6c+

20m

11

Raponzolo 

6b

20m

12

Diedrolo 

6c+

20m

13

Luna 

6b

20m

14

Ray Ley Ray Ley 

7a

19m

15

Pat pong 

6c

20m

16

Ko nok 

7a

22m

17

Algonica 

6c

23m

18

Goduria 

6b+

25m


SECTION C (RIGHT)

1

Shinga 

6b

25m

2

Clexydra 

6b

28m

3

Putrefax 

6b

20m

4

Asbalz 

7b+

18m

5

Canna Sonante 

7a

18m

6

Wat Arun 

6c+

30m

7

Imperversandro 

6c+

20m

8

Asia 

7a

20m

9

Nanà 

7a

18m

10

Alcoholic Passenger 

6c

18m

11

Psychedelic Fly 

7a

18m

12

Scandalosa Mary 

7a

25m

13

Elyas 

6c

21m

14

Bez Holosty 

6c+

22m

15

Tourquemada 

6c

16m

16

Turgida 

6c

15m

17

Orange Bat 

7a

15m

18

The Pusher 

6a+

20m

19

La Lu 

6a+

20m

20

Last Waltz 

7a

18m