6th Outing: 9 June - L'occhio che vide rosso

Via "L'Occhio che Vide Rosso" ("The eye that saw red" Route) → Pilastro dell'Orso → Northern Brenta Group (length 270m / diff. 7b / opened by R. Larcher, F. Leoni and M. Cagol in July 1997)

6th Outing: 9 June - L'occhio che vide rosso
6th Outing: 9 June - L'occhio che vide rosso
6th Outing: 9 June - L'occhio che vide rosso
6th Outing: 9 June - L'occhio che vide rosso
6th Outing: 9 June - L'occhio che vide rosso
6th Outing: 9 June - L'occhio che vide rosso
6th Outing: 9 June - L'occhio che vide rosso
6th Outing: 9 June - L'occhio che vide rosso
6th Outing: 9 June - L'occhio che vide rosso
6th Outing: 9 June - L'occhio che vide rosso

Lake Tovel last turned red in the summer of 1964, after which its waters ceased to put up a show, perhaps tired of the excessive attention from visitors...
Rolando Larcher did not have the privilege, due to his young age, to witness this rare phenomenon but was able to capture on rock the memory of such fiery reflection, imagining an ascent line on a handsome, unlisted pillar that looks right onto the lake.
Moving in the direction of two characteristic niches showing up near the summit, he thus created the "Occhio che vide rosso", a splendid climb in this secluded corner of the Brenta Dolomites, and renamed the summit itself "Pilastro dell'Orso ("bear pillar"), dedicating it to the elusive master of the place.
Of the many routes opened in the Dolomites by one of the undisputed sports climbing protagonists in the world, we chose this particular one for the unusually affordable difficulties, hoping to entice prospective repeaters...
Together with Rolando and Gianpaolo "Trota" Calzà, alpine guide and photographer, we went to climb the "Occhio", while friends Daniele Geremia and Andrea Speziali threw themselves at the more difficult "Attriti verticali...zero!" ("Vertical friction...zero!") which runs nearby.
All day we climbed deep into the fog, in a surreal atmosphere where the only sound was our enthusiastic kids chat: gratified by a dream rock, we let time run away between one photo session and the next, and only in the early evening took the return route to Malga Tuenna... Judge for yourself from Trota's shots if it was worth it or not!
*Thanks to Francesco Gubert of the Chartagena team for helping to film, and to forest ranger Marco Nicolodi.

 

Click here to open the technical report in pdf format

 

Access: starting from the village of Tuenno in Val di Non, follow the signs to Lake Tovel, then at the Capriolo bar-restaurant take the unsurfaced road on the right going up to Malga Tuenna (9km). From the "No Throughfare" sign continue on foot along the path to the mountain dairy (15 min) and then along trail mark 380 to Val Gelada. Once out of the wood, continue in a south-westerly direction, past 3 water tanks and then down into the deep narrow valley where the pillar is located (marked by 2 unmistakable niches in the upper left). Cross further in the direction of the face, then climb up freely on steep meadows to the base (1.30h and 700m difference in height).

 

Return: abseiling along the route.



You may also like ...

62 results

18th Outing: 24 August – Il Canto del Magnificat

Via " Il Canto del Magnificat" ("Magnificat" Route)→ Sass Pordoi...

Ferrata Kaiserjager - Col Ombert

Kaiserjager - Col Ombert Ferrata

The Kaiserjäger Ferrata at Col Ombert, in Val San Nicolò...

Catinaccio,  Passo Santner equipped route

Catinaccio, Passo Santner equipped route

19th Outing: 31 August – Prigionieri di Bisanzio

"Prigionieri di Bisanzio" ("Prisoners of Bysantium" --> Cima del...

5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss

Via "Battisti-Weiss" ("Battisti-Weiss" Route) to the Spiz dele Roe de...

Gabrielli ferrata

Long hiking route with a kind of ferrata interlude given by the short...

U. Bozzetto – Monte Zeledria equipped trail

U. Bozzetto – Monte Zeledria equipped trail

An equipped trail with a few exposed sections but on the whole quite...

“G. Bertotti al Chegul” equipped trail

“G. Bertotti al Chegul” equipped trail

Small didactic Ferrata suitable for all those who want to approach...

Monte Albano equipped route

 Livio Brentari equipped trail

Livio Brentari equipped trail

The Livio Brentari equipped trail represents one of the segments of...

9th Outing: 3 July - Via Hilde

Via "Hilde" ("Hilde" route) at Pilastro Konrad → Ombretta...

Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Firm feet and a head for heights to enjoy a spectacular equipped trail

Monte Roen Ferrata

An easy and panoramic equipped trail, ideal for those who are...

14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza

Via "Elisir di Giovinezza" ("Elixir of Youth" Route) → Brenta...

Mora – Pellegrini equipped trail

Mora – Pellegrini equipped trail

An easy equipped trail running along the scenic ridge between Cima...

17th Outing: 18 August - Via Lucia Pia

Via "Lucia Pia" ("Lucia Pia" Route --> Torre delle Val Perse...

18th Outing: 24 August – Il Canto del Magnificat

Via " Il Canto del Magnificat" ("Magnificat" Route)→ Sass Pordoi → Sella Group(length 1000m / diff. 9- / opened by N. Tondini and R....

Read more ...
Ferrata Kaiserjager - Col Ombert

Kaiserjager - Col Ombert Ferrata

The Kaiserjäger Ferrata at Col Ombert, in Val San Nicolò (Val di Fassa), stands out for its difficulty and the striking environment, one...

Read more ...
Catinaccio,  Passo Santner equipped route

Catinaccio, Passo Santner equipped route

Read more ...

19th Outing: 31 August – Prigionieri di Bisanzio

"Prigionieri di Bisanzio" ("Prisoners of Bysantium" --> Cima del Conte --> Pale di S.Martino (length 300m / diff. 6B / opened by Manolo and P....

Read more ...

5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss

Via "Battisti-Weiss" ("Battisti-Weiss" Route) to the Spiz dele Roe de Ciampiè(length 400m, diff. 6+ and A1 / opened by G. Battisti and T....

Read more ...

Gabrielli ferrata

Long hiking route with a kind of ferrata interlude given by the short but nontrivial Giulio Gabrielli ferrata

Read more ...
U. Bozzetto – Monte Zeledria equipped trail

U. Bozzetto – Monte Zeledria equipped trail

An equipped trail with a few exposed sections but on the whole quite easy

Read more ...
“G. Bertotti al Chegul” equipped trail

“G. Bertotti al Chegul” equipped trail

Small didactic Ferrata suitable for all those who want to approach this type of sport

Read more ...

Monte Albano equipped route

Read more ...
 Livio Brentari equipped trail

Livio Brentari equipped trail

The Livio Brentari equipped trail represents one of the segments of the fantastic Via delle Bocchette

Read more ...

9th Outing: 3 July - Via Hilde

Via "Hilde" ("Hilde" route) at Pilastro Konrad → Ombretta (length 250m/ diff. 6C / opened by E. Boldrin, G. Damian and A. Grisenti in 2006)

Read more ...
Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Firm feet and a head for heights to enjoy a spectacular equipped trail

Read more ...

Monte Roen Ferrata

An easy and panoramic equipped trail, ideal for those who are starting out

Read more ...

14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza

Via "Elisir di Giovinezza" ("Elixir of Youth" Route) → Brenta Alta → Central Brenta Group (length 600m / diff. 6+ / opened by D....

Read more ...
Mora – Pellegrini equipped trail

Mora – Pellegrini equipped trail

An easy equipped trail running along the scenic ridge between Cima Caset and Monte Corno

Read more ...

17th Outing: 18 August - Via Lucia Pia

Via "Lucia Pia" ("Lucia Pia" Route --> Torre delle Val Perse --> Central Brenta Group(length 320m / diff. 6+ and A1 / opened by M.Furlani and...

Read more ...

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering