5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss

Via "Battisti-Weiss" ("Battisti-Weiss" Route) to the Spiz dele Roe de Ciampiè(length 400m, diff. 6+ and A1 / opened by G. Battisti and T. Weiss in August 1973)

5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss
5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss
5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss
5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss
5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss
5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss
5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss
5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss
5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss
5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss

Anyone passing through Val di Fassa cannot help noticing, as he casts his eye on the Larsech group, a huge yellowish tower that resembles the bow of a ship, so sharp is its southern edge. On these overhanging bands runs a route - a real masterpiece - by Gino Battisti, an alpine guide from Val di Fassa. In 1973, accompanied by the then fifteen year old Tita Weiss, Gino inaugurated his first new route by tracing such an awesome line that repeaters were kept away for decades, but which certainly deserves to be rediscovered. After all, the rock is not as loose as one might think, and the excellent pegging allows to progress in free climbing even on artificial stretches (in this regard we must report the recent repetitions by the Austrian climber Much Mayer and by Mario Prinoth together with Bruno Pederiva, who fully "freed" the route).
So, we decided with friends Armando Grisenti and Roberto Pedrotti (alpine guides) to go and repeat it for the 5th stage of our tour: in addition to the beautiful climbing, a long approach lets you penetrate into a totally secluded environment, where you soon forget you have the valley floor just beneath your feet.
It always amazes us to realize how, when we go climbing, the perception of distance, and time, changes and becomes entirely relative... this is perhaps one of the most intriguing aspects of the mountain environment, allowing you to enter unknown and amazing worlds without going to the end of the universe!

When we got back we had the pleasure to personally congratulate Gino Battisti, the opener of the route, who welcomed us in his home with a good glass of wine to celebrate the occasion... the best way in absolute to round off the day!

*special thanks go to Lorenzo Battisti, Gino's nephew (se nipote di zio) grandson (se nipote di nonno) and an alpine guide himself, for his valuable help in shooting.

 

Click here to open the technical report in pdf format

 

Access: from the village of Moncion in Val di Fassa reach "La Regolina" bar-restaurant (vehicle road closed to private traffic). A little above the building (100m up the road) take a path first, then climb freely through the wood in the direction of the face, aiming at the gully that separates the Rizzi Tower (on the right) from the Roa de Ciampiè. Climb the gully, going past a few bottlenecks with demanding passages (diff. 5), up to and just beyond the Southern edge vertical (2.15h).

 

Return: after exiting the route, a short abseil (10m) allows to descend to a notch and then go up the ridge on the main peak. From here, 2 abseils (45m) on the north side will let you reach a characteristic turret (called "Martello") on a saddle. Next, cross briefly to the north (towards the Lausa peaks), then enter a channel (with possible brief descent) leading to anchors for another descent (40m), in a wide chimney.
From here, go down through screes towards the Rizzi Tower fork, doing another 2 short descents (20m x 2) on the last vertical drop. From the notch, cross again in a south-eastern direction and go down through steep meadows to the broad saddle under the Aut de Moncion. Then take the gully that rejoins the approach route covered in the morning.



You may also like ...

62 results

Marmolada Ferrata – Western ridge

The queen of the Dolomites, as the Marmolada is called, shows on its...

Monte Bondone, Giulio Segata via ferrata

18th Outing: 24 August – Il Canto del Magnificat

Via " Il Canto del Magnificat" ("Magnificat" Route)→ Sass Pordoi...

Drena – Rio Sallagoni ferrata

ATTENTION: THE VIA FERRATA IS CURRENTLY CLOSED A real Valle del...

1st Outing: 6 May 2011 - Orso Grigio

Inauguration of the "DoloMitiche" tour with the repetition of the...

Col Ombert - Monzoni via ferrata

11th Outing: 13 July - Via Rosa Selvatica

Via "Rosa Selvatica" ("Wild Rose" Route) → Torre Finestra →...

Cima Capi, F. Susatti equipped path

12th Outing: 16 July - Via Skyluke for Alex

Via "Skyluke for Alex" ("Skyluke for Alex" route) → Cima Canali...

Ferrata Colodri

The Colodri ferrata is one of the classic Valle del Sarca routes

7th Outing: 14 June - Via Messner to Cima della Madonna

Via "Messner" ("Messner" Route) → Cima della Madonna → Pale...

13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus

Via "Maestri" ("Maestri" Route) → Cima della Farfalla →...

Monte Albano Ferrata – Ottorino Marangoni

This ferrata is one of the tough ones, to be tackled with a good...

Valscura equipped path

9th Outing: 3 July - Via Hilde

Via "Hilde" ("Hilde" route) at Pilastro Konrad → Ombretta...

Via dell'Amicizia – Centenario S.A.T. Ferrata

Set up in 1972 to commemorate and celebrate the centenary of S.A.T....

Marmolada Ferrata – Western ridge

The queen of the Dolomites, as the Marmolada is called, shows on its west/north-west side one of the most fascinating ferratas in the whole of the...

Read more ...

Monte Bondone, Giulio Segata via ferrata

Read more ...

18th Outing: 24 August – Il Canto del Magnificat

Via " Il Canto del Magnificat" ("Magnificat" Route)→ Sass Pordoi → Sella Group(length 1000m / diff. 9- / opened by N. Tondini and R....

Read more ...

Drena – Rio Sallagoni ferrata

ATTENTION: THE VIA FERRATA IS CURRENTLY CLOSED A real Valle del Sarca jewel, not so much for the difficulty involved but for the striking,...

Read more ...

1st Outing: 6 May 2011 - Orso Grigio

Inauguration of the "DoloMitiche" tour with the repetition of the Orso Grigio ("Grey Bear") route to Croz dell'AltissimoCentral Brenta Group (length...

Read more ...

Col Ombert - Monzoni via ferrata

Read more ...

11th Outing: 13 July - Via Rosa Selvatica

Via "Rosa Selvatica" ("Wild Rose" Route) → Torre Finestra → Southern Catinaccio (length 200m / diff. 9 / opened by O. Celva and K....

Read more ...

Cima Capi, F. Susatti equipped path

Read more ...

12th Outing: 16 July - Via Skyluke for Alex

Via "Skyluke for Alex" ("Skyluke for Alex" route) → Cima Canali → Pale di S. Martino(length 300m /diff. 7b / opened by R. Scarian and L....

Read more ...

Ferrata Colodri

The Colodri ferrata is one of the classic Valle del Sarca routes

Read more ...

7th Outing: 14 June - Via Messner to Cima della Madonna

Via "Messner" ("Messner" Route) → Cima della Madonna → Pale di S.Martino(length 300m / diff. 5+ / opened by R. and G. Messner in October...

Read more ...

13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus

Via "Maestri" ("Maestri" Route) → Cima della Farfalla → Central Brenta Group (length 380m / diff. 8 / opened by C. Maestri and C. Claus in...

Read more ...

Monte Albano Ferrata – Ottorino Marangoni

This ferrata is one of the tough ones, to be tackled with a good physical training behind you and excellent technique, also climbing technique

Read more ...

Valscura equipped path

Read more ...

9th Outing: 3 July - Via Hilde

Via "Hilde" ("Hilde" route) at Pilastro Konrad → Ombretta (length 250m/ diff. 6C / opened by E. Boldrin, G. Damian and A. Grisenti in 2006)

Read more ...

Via dell'Amicizia – Centenario S.A.T. Ferrata

Set up in 1972 to commemorate and celebrate the centenary of S.A.T. (Società Alpinisti Tridentini - Tridentine Mountaineers Society), this...

Read more ...

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering