5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss
Via "Battisti-Weiss" ("Battisti-Weiss" Route) to the Spiz dele Roe de Ciampiè(length 400m, diff. 6+ and A1 / opened by G. Battisti and T. Weiss in August 1973)
Anyone passing through Val di Fassa cannot help noticing, as he casts his eye on the Larsech group, a huge yellowish tower that resembles the bow of a ship, so sharp is its southern edge. On these overhanging bands runs a route - a real masterpiece - by Gino Battisti, an alpine guide from Val di Fassa. In 1973, accompanied by the then fifteen year old Tita Weiss, Gino inaugurated his first new route by tracing such an awesome line that repeaters were kept away for decades, but which certainly deserves to be rediscovered. After all, the rock is not as loose as one might think, and the excellent pegging allows to progress in free climbing even on artificial stretches (in this regard we must report the recent repetitions by the Austrian climber Much Mayer and by Mario Prinoth together with Bruno Pederiva, who fully "freed" the route).
So, we decided with friends Armando Grisenti and Roberto Pedrotti (alpine guides) to go and repeat it for the 5th stage of our tour: in addition to the beautiful climbing, a long approach lets you penetrate into a totally secluded environment, where you soon forget you have the valley floor just beneath your feet.
It always amazes us to realize how, when we go climbing, the perception of distance, and time, changes and becomes entirely relative... this is perhaps one of the most intriguing aspects of the mountain environment, allowing you to enter unknown and amazing worlds without going to the end of the universe!
When we got back we had the pleasure to personally congratulate Gino Battisti, the opener of the route, who welcomed us in his home with a good glass of wine to celebrate the occasion... the best way in absolute to round off the day!
*special thanks go to Lorenzo Battisti, Gino's nephew (se nipote di zio) grandson (se nipote di nonno) and an alpine guide himself, for his valuable help in shooting.
Access: from the village of Moncion in Val di Fassa reach "La Regolina" bar-restaurant (vehicle road closed to private traffic). A little above the building (100m up the road) take a path first, then climb freely through the wood in the direction of the face, aiming at the gully that separates the Rizzi Tower (on the right) from the Roa de Ciampiè. Climb the gully, going past a few bottlenecks with demanding passages (diff. 5), up to and just beyond the Southern edge vertical (2.15h).
Return: after exiting the route, a short abseil (10m) allows to descend to a notch and then go up the ridge on the main peak. From here, 2 abseils (45m) on the north side will let you reach a characteristic turret (called "Martello") on a saddle. Next, cross briefly to the north (towards the Lausa peaks), then enter a channel (with possible brief descent) leading to anchors for another descent (40m), in a wide chimney.
From here, go down through screes towards the Rizzi Tower fork, doing another 2 short descents (20m x 2) on the last vertical drop. From the notch, cross again in a south-eastern direction and go down through steep meadows to the broad saddle under the Aut de Moncion. Then take the gully that rejoins the approach route covered in the morning.