4th Outing: 24 May – Innocenti Evasioni
Via "Innocenti Evasioni" ("Innocent Escapades" Route) → Cima Susat → Southern Brenta Group(length 300m / diff. 9 / opened by D. Bonvecchio, A. Stenico and M. Giovannazzi in 1992)
For our 4th outing we go and get our hands on the "the most beautiful rock in the world", according to someone... destination Val d'Ambiez! A good part of the rock faces enclosing the splendid amphitheatre of this valley belong to a characteristic geological formation, the grey Rhaetian Limestone, popular with climbers for the outstanding quality of the rock.
The guest of honour today is Danilo Bonvecchio, "father" of many of the most beautiful modern routes of the area established since the early '90s. In that period began the first attempts to bring to high altitude faces the technical difficulties of the valley gyms, confronting even the most repulsive slates with a well defined ethical approach: use the drill to drive spits in, but rigorously from below, without using protections in order to progress. "Innocenti Evasioni" on the Susat peak, the route we are going to repeat today, was indeed one of the first experiments in this direction. Climbing with us is our friend Jiri Leskovian, an alpine guide and eclectic globetrotter climber, while the Chartagena guys follow us from the ground with their mini-copters for aerial photos. After the first pitches, shared with the Colonia route (another gem signed Steinkotter-Hasse), our route climbs up directly over an overhanging blue flow, and from here onwards there is an imperceptible sequence of holes and pockets on open face, the fine result of the work of water over millions of years. We climb chased by the mists, a familiar presence around here, until a feeble sun welcomes us on the top, still covered with snow. It's a shame we are already there: you would want that such a beautiful climb did never end!
Access: from the village of S. Lorenzo in Banale reach the "Dolomiti" bar, at the entrance of Val d'Ambiez. From there, walk or book a jeep taxi (recommended) to "Rifugio al Cacciatore" to then reach Rifugio Agostini. Next, follow the SAT 321 path to the Castiglioni via ferrata and turn left a little before the latter to reach the base of Cima Susat's Eastern face.
1.20h from "Rifugio Al Cacciatore".
Return: Through the Castiglioni via ferrata or abseiling down the route.