4th Outing: 24 May – Innocenti Evasioni

Via "Innocenti Evasioni" ("Innocent Escapades" Route) → Cima Susat → Southern Brenta Group(length 300m / diff. 9 / opened by D. Bonvecchio, A. Stenico and M. Giovannazzi in 1992)

4th Outing: 24 May – Innocenti Evasioni
4th Outing: 24 May – Innocenti Evasioni
4th Outing: 24 May – Innocenti Evasioni
4th Outing: 24 May – Innocenti Evasioni
4th Outing: 24 May – Innocenti Evasioni
4th Outing: 24 May – Innocenti Evasioni
4th Outing: 24 May – Innocenti Evasioni
4th Outing: 24 May – Innocenti Evasioni
4th Outing: 24 May – Innocenti Evasioni
4th Outing: 24 May – Innocenti Evasioni

For our 4th outing we go and get our hands on the "the most beautiful rock in the world", according to someone... destination Val d'Ambiez! A good part of the rock faces enclosing the splendid amphitheatre of this valley belong to a characteristic geological formation, the grey Rhaetian Limestone, popular with climbers for the outstanding quality of the rock.
The guest of honour today is Danilo Bonvecchio, "father" of many of the most beautiful modern routes of the area established since the early '90s. In that period began the first attempts to bring to high altitude faces the technical difficulties of the valley gyms, confronting even the most repulsive slates with a well defined ethical approach: use the drill to drive spits in, but rigorously from below, without using protections in order to progress. "Innocenti Evasioni" on the Susat peak, the route we are going to repeat today, was indeed one of the first experiments in this direction. Climbing with us is our friend Jiri Leskovian, an alpine guide and eclectic globetrotter climber, while the Chartagena guys follow us from the ground with their mini-copters for aerial photos. After the first pitches, shared with the Colonia route (another gem signed Steinkotter-Hasse), our route climbs up directly over an overhanging blue flow, and from here onwards there is an imperceptible sequence of holes and pockets on open face, the fine result of the work of water over millions of years. We climb chased by the mists, a familiar presence around here, until a feeble sun welcomes us on the top, still covered with snow. It's a shame we are already there: you would want that such a beautiful climb did never end!

 

Click here to open the technical report in pdf format

 

Access: from the village of S. Lorenzo in Banale reach the "Dolomiti" bar, at the entrance of Val d'Ambiez. From there, walk or book a jeep taxi (recommended) to "Rifugio al Cacciatore" to then reach Rifugio Agostini. Next, follow the SAT 321 path to the Castiglioni via ferrata and turn left a little before the latter to reach the base of Cima Susat's Eastern face.

1.20h from "Rifugio Al Cacciatore".

Return:
Through the Castiglioni via ferrata or abseiling down the route.



You may also like ...

62 results

Gustavo and Natale Vidi ferrata – Costanzi path

A not too difficult ferrata, also suitable for families with children...

8th Outing: 22 June - Via Rovereto

Via "Rovereto" ("Rovereto" route)→ Spallone di Campail Basso...

20th Outing: 5 September - Via Caries

Via "Caries" ("Caries" Route) → Cima del Dente → Sassolungo...

Oliva Detassis Via Ferrata

Oliva Detassis Via Ferrata

The beautiful and steep "Ferrata Oliva Detassis" is one of the...

Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Firm feet and a head for heights to enjoy a spectacular equipped trail

“Rino Pisetta al Piccolo Dain” Ferrata

A vertical Ferrata, exposed and challenging, winding its way along...

Monte Albano equipped route

Catinaccio,  Passo Santner equipped route

Catinaccio, Passo Santner equipped route

Col Ombert - Monzoni via ferrata

Gabrielli ferrata

Long hiking route with a kind of ferrata interlude given by the short...

Monte Bondone, Giulio Segata via ferrata

18th Outing: 24 August – Il Canto del Magnificat

Via " Il Canto del Magnificat" ("Magnificat" Route)→ Sass Pordoi...

5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss

Via "Battisti-Weiss" ("Battisti-Weiss" Route) to the Spiz dele Roe de...

 Livio Brentari equipped trail

Livio Brentari equipped trail

The Livio Brentari equipped trail represents one of the segments of...

Preore ferrata

This unusual ferrata winds its way along a special route that...

Cima Capi, F. Susatti equipped path

Gustavo and Natale Vidi ferrata – Costanzi path

A not too difficult ferrata, also suitable for families with children over 12, provided they are accompanied and trained, and have previous ferrata...

Read more ...

8th Outing: 22 June - Via Rovereto

Via "Rovereto" ("Rovereto" route)→ Spallone di Campail Basso (length 450m, diff. 6+ and A2, opened by Armando Aste and Angelo Miorandi in...

Read more ...

20th Outing: 5 September - Via Caries

Via "Caries" ("Caries" Route) → Cima del Dente → Sassolungo Group(length 300m / diff. 9 / opened by A. Holzknecht and K.Unterkircher in...

Read more ...
Oliva Detassis Via Ferrata

Oliva Detassis Via Ferrata

The beautiful and steep "Ferrata Oliva Detassis" is one of the equipped trails of the famous Via delle Bocchette

Read more ...
Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Firm feet and a head for heights to enjoy a spectacular equipped trail

Read more ...

“Rino Pisetta al Piccolo Dain” Ferrata

A vertical Ferrata, exposed and challenging, winding its way along the beautiful eastern face of Piccolo Dain, the peak overlooking the village of...

Read more ...

Monte Albano equipped route

Read more ...
Catinaccio,  Passo Santner equipped route

Catinaccio, Passo Santner equipped route

Read more ...

Col Ombert - Monzoni via ferrata

Read more ...

Gabrielli ferrata

Long hiking route with a kind of ferrata interlude given by the short but nontrivial Giulio Gabrielli ferrata

Read more ...

Monte Bondone, Giulio Segata via ferrata

Read more ...

18th Outing: 24 August – Il Canto del Magnificat

Via " Il Canto del Magnificat" ("Magnificat" Route)→ Sass Pordoi → Sella Group(length 1000m / diff. 9- / opened by N. Tondini and R....

Read more ...

5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss

Via "Battisti-Weiss" ("Battisti-Weiss" Route) to the Spiz dele Roe de Ciampiè(length 400m, diff. 6+ and A1 / opened by G. Battisti and T....

Read more ...
 Livio Brentari equipped trail

Livio Brentari equipped trail

The Livio Brentari equipped trail represents one of the segments of the fantastic Via delle Bocchette

Read more ...

Preore ferrata

This unusual ferrata winds its way along a special route that alternates challenging rock sections and relaxing moments in the wood, strewn with real...

Read more ...

Cima Capi, F. Susatti equipped path

Read more ...

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering