3rd Outing: 19 May - Leviti Nemela

Via "Leviti-Nemela" ("Leviti-Nemela" Route) → Eastern face of Central Catinaccio (length 580m / diff. 7+ / opened by A. Leviti and I. Nemela in August 1973)

3rd Outing: 19 May - Leviti Nemela
3rd Outing: 19 May - Leviti Nemela
3rd Outing: 19 May - Leviti Nemela
3rd Outing: 19 May - Leviti Nemela
3rd Outing: 19 May - Leviti Nemela
3rd Outing: 19 May - Leviti Nemela
3rd Outing: 19 May - Leviti Nemela
3rd Outing: 19 May - Leviti Nemela
3rd Outing: 19 May - Leviti Nemela
3rd Outing: 19 May - Leviti Nemela

In these days of really unstable weather, with afternoon thunderstorms as sudden as they are predictable, we are finally able to plan a climb. The idea is to re-trace a route by Aldo Leviti and Ivo Nemela on the Catinaccio Eastern face, and the party will include the openers: they both made themselves available to join us, 38 years after their first ascent.
It was the year 1973 when the two of them, then in their early twenties, faced the yellowish cliffs in the right sector of the face, extracting a high difficulty direct route from them; their achievement became in time quite an appreciated classic route, also thanks to the possibility of full "free climbing", with no extreme difficulties, on the pitches originally done "in artificial climbing". While Aldo in these years returned a few times to repeat the route, for Ivo this is a first personal repetition, and we feel even more honoured because of that.
To complete today's team are Matteo Faletti and Mirko Corn, and all of us together provide a nice inter-generational representation of alpine guides. The day goes by quickly, as always when you are climbing, with Aldo and Ivo who, between one story and the next, show they have preserved the class and enthusiasm of DOC climbers intact. Below us, the splendid Gardeccia bowl is unusually quiet, and it seems odd to think that in a few weeks it will resound with the echo of thousands of hikers. Once we reach the summit basin, we opt for abseiling on the return route, given the snow still present in the upper part; then with no hurry we start walking towards the valley, with the indolence of those who want to enjoy to the end a beautiful day spent in the mountains.

 

Click here to open the technical report in pdf format

 

Access: from the village of Moncion, in Val di Fassa, reach Rifugio Gardeccia (vehicle road closed to private traffic. Shuttle bus service). From here, climb the unsurfaced road leading to Rifugio Preuss and Rifugio Vajolet, to then turn into path 541 which crosses underneath Punta Emma. Having reached the base of the face, go freely up the screes and climb over a jutting rock (from right to left) leading to the start of the route.

 

Return: after exiting on the summit ridge, reach the top and descend along the normal route on the north side. Alternatively, you can abseil down the "Spittomania" route, exiting to the right at the 11th pitch, in which case we recommend 60m ropes.



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