2nd Outing: 11 May 2011 - Tuoni e Fulmini

Via "Tuoni e Fulmini" ("Thunders and Bolts" Route) → Maerins → Val S. Nicolò.(length 200m / diff. 7b+ / opened by Bruno Pederiva, R. Bassi and H. Mariacher in 1985)

2nd Outing: 11 May 2011 - Tuoni e Fulmini
2nd Outing: 11 May 2011 - Tuoni e Fulmini
2nd Outing: 11 May 2011 - Tuoni e Fulmini
2nd Outing: 11 May 2011 - Tuoni e Fulmini
2nd Outing: 11 May 2011 - Tuoni e Fulmini
2nd Outing: 11 May 2011 - Tuoni e Fulmini
2nd Outing: 11 May 2011 - Tuoni e Fulmini
2nd Outing: 11 May 2011 - Tuoni e Fulmini
2nd Outing: 11 May 2011 - Tuoni e Fulmini
2nd Outing: 11 May 2011 - Tuoni e Fulmini

The second stage of the tour takes us to Val S. Nicolò, enchanted corner of Val di Fassa, and more precisely to the rocks of two impressive pillars called "Maerins", dominating the access to the upper part of the valley.
The chosen route is called "Tuoni e Fulmini" and was pegged from the top in 1984 by Bruno Pederiva with the help of two other major figures of the period, Roberto Bassi and Heinz Mariacher: it is one of the earliest routes equipped for sports climbing (i.e. with regular spit pegging) in Italy.
Our climbing companions for the occasion are the alpine guides Mirko Corn and Sandro De Zolt, and together we are going to explore a route that turns out to be a real gem: 6 pitches of technical and varied climbing on ultra compact rock! The pegging in some sections is quite demanding and difficulties remain high to the very last metre, when we come out on the sunny pastures above, after unveiling a truly cutting-edge route for the time when it was opened.
A few days later I went to see Bruno Pederiva, still a high level climber (as well as alpine guide and national instructor in training courses for guides), and it was a real pleasure to have him tell the story of this route and of the many experiments of a period that deeply revolutionised the world of climbing, opening new horizons.

 

Click here to open the technical report in pdf format

 

Access: from the town of Pozza di Fassa go up into Val S. Nicolò to the car park on the torrent (narrow downhill road), where the valley opens up, then follow on foot the path that starts on the opposite side of the road. Once you are past the boulders with the climbing gyms, continue upwards and then past a narrow passage between two boulders, leaving the path shortly after to freely walk to the base of the faces. From here, go across until you are past the left pillar and climb up the gorge that leads to the start of the route. 30-40min.

 

Return: abseiling down the route



You may also like ...

62 results

4th Outing: 24 May – Innocenti Evasioni

Via "Innocenti Evasioni" ("Innocent Escapades" Route) → Cima...

Gustavo and Natale Vidi ferrata – Costanzi path

A not too difficult ferrata, also suitable for families with children...

8th Outing: 22 June - Via Rovereto

Via "Rovereto" ("Rovereto" route)→ Spallone di Campail Basso...

20th Outing: 5 September - Via Caries

Via "Caries" ("Caries" Route) → Cima del Dente → Sassolungo...

Oliva Detassis Via Ferrata

Oliva Detassis Via Ferrata

The beautiful and steep "Ferrata Oliva Detassis" is one of the...

Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Firm feet and a head for heights to enjoy a spectacular equipped trail

“Rino Pisetta al Piccolo Dain” Ferrata

A vertical Ferrata, exposed and challenging, winding its way along...

Monte Albano equipped route

Catinaccio,  Passo Santner equipped route

Catinaccio, Passo Santner equipped route

Col Ombert - Monzoni via ferrata

Gabrielli ferrata

Long hiking route with a kind of ferrata interlude given by the short...

Monte Bondone, Giulio Segata via ferrata

18th Outing: 24 August – Il Canto del Magnificat

Via " Il Canto del Magnificat" ("Magnificat" Route)→ Sass Pordoi...

5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss

Via "Battisti-Weiss" ("Battisti-Weiss" Route) to the Spiz dele Roe de...

 Livio Brentari equipped trail

Livio Brentari equipped trail

The Livio Brentari equipped trail represents one of the segments of...

Preore ferrata

This unusual ferrata winds its way along a special route that...

4th Outing: 24 May – Innocenti Evasioni

Via "Innocenti Evasioni" ("Innocent Escapades" Route) → Cima Susat → Southern Brenta Group(length 300m / diff. 9 / opened by D. Bonvecchio,...

Read more ...

Gustavo and Natale Vidi ferrata – Costanzi path

A not too difficult ferrata, also suitable for families with children over 12, provided they are accompanied and trained, and have previous ferrata...

Read more ...

8th Outing: 22 June - Via Rovereto

Via "Rovereto" ("Rovereto" route)→ Spallone di Campail Basso (length 450m, diff. 6+ and A2, opened by Armando Aste and Angelo Miorandi in...

Read more ...

20th Outing: 5 September - Via Caries

Via "Caries" ("Caries" Route) → Cima del Dente → Sassolungo Group(length 300m / diff. 9 / opened by A. Holzknecht and K.Unterkircher in...

Read more ...
Oliva Detassis Via Ferrata

Oliva Detassis Via Ferrata

The beautiful and steep "Ferrata Oliva Detassis" is one of the equipped trails of the famous Via delle Bocchette

Read more ...
Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Firm feet and a head for heights to enjoy a spectacular equipped trail

Read more ...

“Rino Pisetta al Piccolo Dain” Ferrata

A vertical Ferrata, exposed and challenging, winding its way along the beautiful eastern face of Piccolo Dain, the peak overlooking the village of...

Read more ...

Monte Albano equipped route

Read more ...
Catinaccio,  Passo Santner equipped route

Catinaccio, Passo Santner equipped route

Read more ...

Col Ombert - Monzoni via ferrata

Read more ...

Gabrielli ferrata

Long hiking route with a kind of ferrata interlude given by the short but nontrivial Giulio Gabrielli ferrata

Read more ...

Monte Bondone, Giulio Segata via ferrata

Read more ...

18th Outing: 24 August – Il Canto del Magnificat

Via " Il Canto del Magnificat" ("Magnificat" Route)→ Sass Pordoi → Sella Group(length 1000m / diff. 9- / opened by N. Tondini and R....

Read more ...

5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss

Via "Battisti-Weiss" ("Battisti-Weiss" Route) to the Spiz dele Roe de Ciampiè(length 400m, diff. 6+ and A1 / opened by G. Battisti and T....

Read more ...
 Livio Brentari equipped trail

Livio Brentari equipped trail

The Livio Brentari equipped trail represents one of the segments of the fantastic Via delle Bocchette

Read more ...

Preore ferrata

This unusual ferrata winds its way along a special route that alternates challenging rock sections and relaxing moments in the wood, strewn with real...

Read more ...

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering