2nd Outing: 11 May 2011 - Tuoni e Fulmini
Via "Tuoni e Fulmini" ("Thunders and Bolts" Route) → Maerins → Val S. Nicolò.(length 200m / diff. 7b+ / opened by Bruno Pederiva, R. Bassi and H. Mariacher in 1985)
The second stage of the tour takes us to Val S. Nicolò, enchanted corner of Val di Fassa, and more precisely to the rocks of two impressive pillars called "Maerins", dominating the access to the upper part of the valley.
The chosen route is called "Tuoni e Fulmini" and was pegged from the top in 1984 by Bruno Pederiva with the help of two other major figures of the period, Roberto Bassi and Heinz Mariacher: it is one of the earliest routes equipped for sports climbing (i.e. with regular spit pegging) in Italy.
Our climbing companions for the occasion are the alpine guides Mirko Corn and Sandro De Zolt, and together we are going to explore a route that turns out to be a real gem: 6 pitches of technical and varied climbing on ultra compact rock! The pegging in some sections is quite demanding and difficulties remain high to the very last metre, when we come out on the sunny pastures above, after unveiling a truly cutting-edge route for the time when it was opened.
A few days later I went to see Bruno Pederiva, still a high level climber (as well as alpine guide and national instructor in training courses for guides), and it was a real pleasure to have him tell the story of this route and of the many experiments of a period that deeply revolutionised the world of climbing, opening new horizons.
Access: from the town of Pozza di Fassa go up into Val S. Nicolò to the car park on the torrent (narrow downhill road), where the valley opens up, then follow on foot the path that starts on the opposite side of the road. Once you are past the boulders with the climbing gyms, continue upwards and then past a narrow passage between two boulders, leaving the path shortly after to freely walk to the base of the faces. From here, go across until you are past the left pillar and climb up the gorge that leads to the start of the route. 30-40min.
Return: abseiling down the route