17th Outing: 18 August - Via Lucia Pia
Via "Lucia Pia" ("Lucia Pia" Route --> Torre delle Val Perse --> Central Brenta Group(length 320m / diff. 6+ and A1 / opened by M.Furlani and Franco Corn in 1983)
There are routes that "solve" a face in a definitive manner, creating an aesthetically unrivalled course. That is the case of Via Lucia Pia on the Torre delle Val Perse, a creation of Marco Furlani and Franco Corn dated 1983.
This pointed obelisk had surely stirred the imagination of past generations climbers already, but probably the yellowish overhanging rocks of the South-Eastern face did not entice any serious attempt. So the face has remained there, waiting, until relatively recent times when at last the right eye was able to track down a logically impeccable line, zig-zagging between roofs in search for the weakest points.
After all, Marco Furlani is one of the best Dolomites experts around, having thousands of repetitions and several new routes on the most significant massifs in Trentino to his credit; and he always showed a predilection for certain corners, hidden away and little trodden by most climbers...
Together with his friends Marco Maganzini (an alpine guide from Pinzolo) and Federico Zendron, we reached the Torre delle Val Perse in a torrid August day, when not even the 3,000m-air did want to know about heavy clothes and anoraks, and we stumbled upon an intense but really enjoyable climb, that surely will in time become more popular.
Access: from the Tuckett refuge reach the homonymous fork (Bocca di Tuckett), and go down the scree on the opposite side for about 150m, until just below the Torre's South-Eastern face, on the left. Go back up briefly across debris and get 30m higher along a washed-out channel (starting peg). 1.00h.
Return: Descend along the notch between the Torre and Cima Sella (50m abseil), then with another short descent (15m) pass by a short crag. From here it is best to down-climb for about 50m (diff. 2) and get to the next descent, on a huge boulder wedged in the channel-chimney. Then with another 4 abseils (the last one of exactly 60m) return to the start point.