15th Outing: 3 August - Via Specchio di Sara
Via "Specchio di Sara" ("Sara's Mirror" Route)→ Southern Face of the Marmolada (length 500m / diff. 9/ opened by M. Giordani and R. Manfrini in August 1988)
Maurizio Giordani opened about fifty routes on the Marmolada great Southern Face, i.e. a little less than one third of all those now present. It was therefore difficult to choose one to best represent thirty years of climbing at the highest level: in the end we opted for "Specchio di Sara", letting ourselves be guided by the captivating look of its vertical slabs, but really there would have been many others... Moby Dick, Irreale, Fortuna: names that have been troubling the sleep of many climbers with their promises of beautiful and demanding ascents.
The "Specchio", that climbers almost always repeat up to the big middle ledge, offers an ascent of great technical and mental commitment, on a rock of bewildering denseness. Compared to other routes on the same face, little visited or not visited at all, this particular one met some success over the years with high level climbers, also thanks - perhaps - to a few spits softening (but not too much!) the stretches that are more difficult to protect. For this reason, upon indication of the opener himself, as we were repeating the route we proceeded to replace the old spits, now hardly reliable (*without of course altering the original pegging) and to reinforce the belays, since they are shared on the way back with several routes on this section of the face: the time required for this "restyling" job prevented us from completing the route (but we will be back as soon as possible!): we just hope to have pleased repeaters!
Click here to open the technical report in pdf format
Access: starting from Val di Fassa go up to Passo Fedaia and then down to the Malga Ciapela hamlet. Take the track that leads to the homonymous camping site and continue until it becomes an unsurfaced road (bridge). Next, take the path up to Rifugio Falier (about 1.15h). From the refuge, get to the base of the face and then across, heading east, high above the base wall, until you reach the start of the "Specchio".
Return: Abseiling along the route (from the 9th pitch belay you can descend on a straight line with three 60m abseils)