14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza

Via "Elisir di Giovinezza" ("Elixir of Youth" Route) → Brenta Alta → Central Brenta Group (length 600m / diff. 6+ / opened by D. Sebastiani, V. Chini and M. Cagol in 1988)

14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza
14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza
14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza
14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza
14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza
14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza
14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza
14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza
14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza
14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza

Wouldn't you like one day to come across the magic Elixir of Youth?
Dario Sebastiani and Valentino Chini, a strong climbing party from Trento active in the '80s/'90s, went to look for it between the folds of the Eastern Face of Brenta Alta, and we don't know whether they found it... they have left, however, signs of their passage, giving us a sophisticated and extremely logical route. An unexpected series of cracks allows to overcome without too much difficulty a large band of overhangs in the middle section of the face, always on flawless rock, with a grand finale provided by the last pitch on the summit pillar.
We had the pleasure of repeating this route for the 14th stage of the DoloMitiche tour together with Dario Sebastiani himself, a reserved climber who has concentrated most of his opener activity right here in the Brenta Group. During the day we spent together, wherever we turned there was a handsome needle crossed by some of his routes, and here we vowed to come again to have a go at them as soon as possible, hoping he hid the Elixir bottle in there somewhere!


Click here to open the technical report in pdf format

 

Access: starting from the town of Molveno go up on foot or by taxi along Val delle Seghe to Rifugio Croz dell'Altissimo. From here, continue on the SAT 340 path to Rifugio Selvata, and then on the SAT 319 path to Rifugio Pedrotti (for a possible overnight stay). Just below the refuge, intercept the "Orsi" path and follow it in a north-eastern direction to Busa degli Sfulmini. Then go freely across screes until you are below the right edge of the Eastern Face of Brenta Alta. The route start is shared with the Detassis route (30min. from Rifugio Pedrotti or 2.00h from Rifugio Croz dell'Altissimo).

Return: via the normal route. From the summit ridge go down, heading south, through a gully (diff. 2 passages or possible short descents), and exit on the right at the first debris ledges. Go further down, gradually crossing to the right, until you reach a rocky crag with anchors for descent over a large chimney (1 descent of 50m or 2 shorter descents). Go down again on debris, then over a last crag (20m at diff. 2/3 level or possible descent) and take a narrow ledge going across to Bocca di Brenta. From here it is only a short way to Rifugio Pedrotti (1.15h from the top).



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