13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus

Via "Maestri" ("Maestri" Route) → Cima della Farfalla → Central Brenta Group (length 380m / diff. 8 / opened by C. Maestri and C. Claus in July 1967)

13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus

Cesare Maestri is one of those directly responsible for my budding passion for rocks as a kid: when at 13 years of age I came across one of his books, "Climbing is my job", I was fascinated, to say the least, by those adventurous stories, and that is how the bug of imitating one day the mythical "Spider of the Dolomites" hopelessly crept into my head ...
I recall all that in this day of July, cold and foggy, as we climb on his route to Cima della Farfalla, and for a moment I feel a tiny bit of satisfaction. We are going over the bolts of his "direttissima", opened in 1967 following the mirage of the "falling water drop", typical of the time, and we discover a rock that step after step is increasingly solid and equipped, ideal for a modern revisitation in free climbing...
That is what we had in mind when we decided to come here and repeat this route, perhaps less well known than others; but when we later met Cesare Maestri he unfortunately told us he could not remember anything at all about this route, he thought the one he opened with Claudio Baldessari on the western face of Roda de Vael was much more representative instead...
Forget it: burdened by a moral obligation, we got our hands also on this one (yes, it is a dirty job but someone has got to do it!!), so now we can present a mixed reportage, with a photo gallery on Cima della Farfalla and the video story of Roda de Vaèl. Enjoy!


Click here to open the technical report in pdf format

 

Access: starting from Madonna di Campiglio, take the road to Vallesinella, then continue on foot to Rifugio Alberto e Maria ai Brentei. From here, carry on along the SAT 327 path, which crosses under the Crozzon di Brenta, and proceed towards the conspicuous "Farfalla" face. Then enter a big ledge (the higher between the two) going up from right to left, and go fully through it until you reach the start of the route, 1m to the right of a spit belay (1 rusty peg). 2.30h from Vallesinella / 40min. from Rifugio Brentei.

Return: abseiling along the sports climbing route "Die Frau ist der Ruin des Alpinismus" ("Women are the ruin of alpine climbing"), just to the left of the Maestri route (from the belay of the last, quite hard pitch, go up another 15m to a niche in order to reach the descent belay).
On descending, follow the spit line and be careful to anchor the ropes to the face with quick draws on the last descent, which will take you back to the starting ledge. From there, instead of returning via the ledge, reach with another abseil the ledge below, where a belay is equipped for one last descent (free hanging) that brings you straight back to the scree at the base of the face.



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