13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus

Via "Maestri" ("Maestri" Route) → Cima della Farfalla → Central Brenta Group (length 380m / diff. 8 / opened by C. Maestri and C. Claus in July 1967)

13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus
13th Outing: 25 July - Via Maestri-Claus

Cesare Maestri is one of those directly responsible for my budding passion for rocks as a kid: when at 13 years of age I came across one of his books, "Climbing is my job", I was fascinated, to say the least, by those adventurous stories, and that is how the bug of imitating one day the mythical "Spider of the Dolomites" hopelessly crept into my head ...
I recall all that in this day of July, cold and foggy, as we climb on his route to Cima della Farfalla, and for a moment I feel a tiny bit of satisfaction. We are going over the bolts of his "direttissima", opened in 1967 following the mirage of the "falling water drop", typical of the time, and we discover a rock that step after step is increasingly solid and equipped, ideal for a modern revisitation in free climbing...
That is what we had in mind when we decided to come here and repeat this route, perhaps less well known than others; but when we later met Cesare Maestri he unfortunately told us he could not remember anything at all about this route, he thought the one he opened with Claudio Baldessari on the western face of Roda de Vael was much more representative instead...
Forget it: burdened by a moral obligation, we got our hands also on this one (yes, it is a dirty job but someone has got to do it!!), so now we can present a mixed reportage, with a photo gallery on Cima della Farfalla and the video story of Roda de Vaèl. Enjoy!


Click here to open the technical report in pdf format

 

Access: starting from Madonna di Campiglio, take the road to Vallesinella, then continue on foot to Rifugio Alberto e Maria ai Brentei. From here, carry on along the SAT 327 path, which crosses under the Crozzon di Brenta, and proceed towards the conspicuous "Farfalla" face. Then enter a big ledge (the higher between the two) going up from right to left, and go fully through it until you reach the start of the route, 1m to the right of a spit belay (1 rusty peg). 2.30h from Vallesinella / 40min. from Rifugio Brentei.

Return: abseiling along the sports climbing route "Die Frau ist der Ruin des Alpinismus" ("Women are the ruin of alpine climbing"), just to the left of the Maestri route (from the belay of the last, quite hard pitch, go up another 15m to a niche in order to reach the descent belay).
On descending, follow the spit line and be careful to anchor the ropes to the face with quick draws on the last descent, which will take you back to the starting ledge. From there, instead of returning via the ledge, reach with another abseil the ledge below, where a belay is equipped for one last descent (free hanging) that brings you straight back to the scree at the base of the face.



You may also like ...

62 results
“G. Bertotti al Chegul” equipped trail

“G. Bertotti al Chegul” equipped trail

Small didactic Ferrata suitable for all those who want to approach...

Valscura equipped path

15th Outing: 3 August - Via Specchio di Sara

Via "Specchio di Sara" ("Sara's Mirror" Route)→ Southern Face of...

Equipped route to the Burrone di Mezzocorona (Tullio Giovanelli)

This equipped route runs along the pronounced crack splitting the...

6th Outing: 9 June - L'occhio che vide rosso

Via "L'Occhio che Vide Rosso" ("The eye that saw red" Route) →...

U. Bozzetto – Monte Zeledria equipped trail

U. Bozzetto – Monte Zeledria equipped trail

An equipped trail with a few exposed sections but on the whole quite...

“Rino Pisetta al Piccolo Dain” Ferrata

A vertical Ferrata, exposed and challenging, winding its way along...

Bocchette Alte Ferrata

The "Bocchette" equipped trail is certainly the most fascinating...

Via dell'Amicizia – Centenario S.A.T. Ferrata

Set up in 1972 to commemorate and celebrate the centenary of S.A.T....

7th Outing: 14 June - Via Messner to Cima della Madonna

Via "Messner" ("Messner" Route) → Cima della Madonna → Pale...

Cima Rocca ferrata

An equipped route suitable for everyone that allows to ascend the...

Cima Capi, F. Susatti equipped path

Ferrata Colodri

The Colodri ferrata is one of the classic Valle del Sarca routes

14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza

Via "Elisir di Giovinezza" ("Elixir of Youth" Route) → Brenta...

Via dell'Amicizia – Centenario S.A.T. Ferrata

Alfredo Benini equipped trail

The Alfredo Benini equipped trail is often seen as the northern...

“G. Bertotti al Chegul” equipped trail

“G. Bertotti al Chegul” equipped trail

Small didactic Ferrata suitable for all those who want to approach this type of sport

Read more ...

Valscura equipped path

Read more ...

15th Outing: 3 August - Via Specchio di Sara

Via "Specchio di Sara" ("Sara's Mirror" Route)→ Southern Face of the Marmolada (length 500m / diff. 9/ opened by M. Giordani and R. Manfrini in...

Read more ...

Equipped route to the Burrone di Mezzocorona (Tullio Giovanelli)

This equipped route runs along the pronounced crack splitting the south-western side of the Monte di Mezzocorona

Read more ...

6th Outing: 9 June - L'occhio che vide rosso

Via "L'Occhio che Vide Rosso" ("The eye that saw red" Route) → Pilastro dell'Orso → Northern Brenta Group (length 270m / diff. 7b / opened...

Read more ...
U. Bozzetto – Monte Zeledria equipped trail

U. Bozzetto – Monte Zeledria equipped trail

An equipped trail with a few exposed sections but on the whole quite easy

Read more ...

“Rino Pisetta al Piccolo Dain” Ferrata

A vertical Ferrata, exposed and challenging, winding its way along the beautiful eastern face of Piccolo Dain, the peak overlooking the village of...

Read more ...

Bocchette Alte Ferrata

The "Bocchette" equipped trail is certainly the most fascinating "high route" in the Dolomites, possibly in the Alps

Read more ...

Via dell'Amicizia – Centenario S.A.T. Ferrata

Set up in 1972 to commemorate and celebrate the centenary of S.A.T. (Società Alpinisti Tridentini - Tridentine Mountaineers Society), this...

Read more ...

7th Outing: 14 June - Via Messner to Cima della Madonna

Via "Messner" ("Messner" Route) → Cima della Madonna → Pale di S.Martino(length 300m / diff. 5+ / opened by R. and G. Messner in October...

Read more ...

Cima Rocca ferrata

An equipped route suitable for everyone that allows to ascend the southern slopes of Cima Rocca

Read more ...

Cima Capi, F. Susatti equipped path

Read more ...

Ferrata Colodri

The Colodri ferrata is one of the classic Valle del Sarca routes

Read more ...

14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza

Via "Elisir di Giovinezza" ("Elixir of Youth" Route) → Brenta Alta → Central Brenta Group (length 600m / diff. 6+ / opened by D....

Read more ...

Via dell'Amicizia – Centenario S.A.T. Ferrata

Read more ...

Alfredo Benini equipped trail

The Alfredo Benini equipped trail is often seen as the northern extension of the famous "Via delle Bocchette", the best known and most fascinating...

Read more ...

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering