12th Outing: 16 July - Via Skyluke for Alex
Via "Skyluke for Alex" ("Skyluke for Alex" route) → Cima Canali → Pale di S. Martino(length 300m /diff. 7b / opened by R. Scarian and L. Boninsegna in summer 2009)
It seems impossible that such a handsome and conspicuous route, just in front of Rifugio Pradidali, could remain on display all these years without anyone trying to get their hands on it... but maybe routes, too, wait for the right persons before they let themselves be noticed! Besides, it is a nice demonstration of how much still remains to be done in the new millennium.
This time the Torre Gialla chosen ones were Sky and Luca, and their success appears quite well deserved since they are playing at home: the first one, from Transacqua, is among the strongest climbers on the Italian scene, an athlete capable of climbing a 9A on cliffs and the creator of a few routes of reference for high difficulty sports climbing (see the "Cani Morti"); the second one, from S. Martino di Castrozza, grew up in front of the Cima Canali rocks, his family having run Rifugio Pradidali for about 16 years. Both are also alpine guides, which is perhaps why they equipped their route with a special eye for safety, using spits on belays and pitches in the most difficult stretches.
The rock is not perfect, but improves exponentially as you go up, and the result is a nice route that presumably will be appreciated by many, even though the difficulties are not exactly trivial.
Ah, we almost forgot: the exposure, both on ascending and descending, is guaranteed!
*the route is dedicated to young Alex Bettega, who died prematurely.
Access: starting from the town of Fiera di Primiero, enter Val Canali and go up to "La Ritonda" bar-restaurant. From here, follow the SAT 709 path to Rifugio Pradidali (2.15h). From the refuge, head towards Torre Gialla and go up the gully until you see a green cord signalling the start of the route (30min.).
Return: abseiling along the route. Anchor the ropes to the face with quick draws on overhanging pitches.