11th Outing: 13 July - Via Rosa Selvatica
Via "Rosa Selvatica" ("Wild Rose" Route) → Torre Finestra → Southern Catinaccio (length 200m / diff. 9 / opened by O. Celva and K. Ausserdorfer in summer 2007)
Oswald Celva is one of the most experienced Dolomites climbers around, active at the highest level for more than 20 years. According to his opening ethics, he gave up spits for good, thoroughly exploring the potential of classic protections in high difficulty situations.
The result of his research is often amazing, as in this route on Torre Finestra, where it would have been hard to imagine climbing in such a style.
But the opener managed to catch on these hyper-compact slates an imperceptible sequence of superficial holes and cracks, easy to be protected with pegs, friends, and lots of tunnels! The end result was a very nice climb (in any case meant for highly prepared climbers) on a perfect rock, so much so that the example was soon followed by two local young climbers (and alpine guides), Tommaso Cardelli and Christian Dalla Pozza, who just alongside this route opened another one in the same style that promises to keep up with the first ...
A word to a wise man is enough!
Access: from Vigo di Fassa take the cableway to Rifugio Ciampedie, then follow the SAT 545 path (upper via dei Fassani) to Rifugio Roda de Vaél (1.20h). From here, go straight up under the Eastern face of Torre Finestra - or Croz di S.Giuliana (20min).
Alternatively, Rifugio Roda de Vaél can also be reached from Passo Costalunga on the SAT 548 path (1.15h).
Return: once out of the route, on the ridge, you find an equipped anchoring (2ch) that allows you to go straight down to the scree (west side) with a 50m abseil. Alternatively, reach the actual summit and follow the classic descent route (1 abseil x 40m).