10th Outing: 8 July - Via dei 5 Muri
Via dei 5 Muri ("5 Walls" Route) → Piramide Armani → Vallaccia (length 450m /diff. 8- /opened by G. Maffei and P. Leoni in August 1986)
To celebrate the halfway point of our tour, on its 10th stage we entered the magical realm of Vallaccia, a quiet and little known corner of the Fassa Dolomites. Here climbing achievements bear practically one signature, that of the Maffei - Frizzera - Leoni party from Rovereto. In the late '70s these faces, that until then had received little or no attention at all, became to them a sort of private playground where to test themselves and figure out increasingly daring routes.
The driving force of this team, as strong as it was humble, was undoubtedly the late Graziano "Feo" Maffei, whom we would like so much to have met, and who emerges from his friends' stories as an incurable romantic, charismatic and optimist beyond all reason.
Put a figure with the legendary physical endurance of Mariano Frizzera (not surprisingly dubbed by some the "Bonatti of the Dolomites"), and the natural talent of a climber like Paolo Leoni (nearly 70 and still climbing on the 8a, if you know what I mean...) next to Maffei, and you will have one of the most powerful climbing parties ever to roam the Monti Pallidi!
For our tour we chose to follow the "Via dei 5 Muri", quite representative of the class of its openers but less extreme than the nearby "Canto del Cigno" (Swan Song), and thus perhaps appealing to a larger number of repeaters.
If you climb to the base of these faces, do it on tiptoe and you will discover "a treasure chest", as Graziano Maffei happened to say.
Access: starting from the village of Pozza di Fassa enter Val S. Nicolò and go up to the bridge near the Soldanella restaurant, where you can park. From here, follow the signs of the SAT 615 path to the Zeni camp (first stretch along a forest road, then junction to the right). The Piramide Armani face is right in front of the camp (5min). The route starts on a section full of holes, just right of a large dihedron (2 cords visible). From the valley, 1.40h.
Return: from the pyramid top descend into the rear channel with an equipped abseil onto the right edge (25m). Go up the edge and then across grassy ledges and other channels (some ups and downs - cairns and path traces) in the direction of Torre di Mezzaluna. One last channel (diff. 3) allows you to go straight down to the scree coming down from Forcella Vallaccia and get back to the camp (45min).