10th Outing: 8 July - Via dei 5 Muri

Via dei 5 Muri ("5 Walls" Route) → Piramide Armani → Vallaccia (length 450m /diff. 8- /opened by G. Maffei and P. Leoni in August 1986)

10th Outing: 8 July - Via dei 5 Muri
10th Outing: 8 July - Via dei 5 Muri
10th Outing: 8 July - Via dei 5 Muri
10th Outing: 8 July - Via dei 5 Muri
10th Outing: 8 July - Via dei 5 Muri
10th Outing: 8 July - Via dei 5 Muri
10th Outing: 8 July - Via dei 5 Muri
10th Outing: 8 July - Via dei 5 Muri
10th Outing: 8 July - Via dei 5 Muri
10th Outing: 8 July - Via dei 5 Muri

To celebrate the halfway point of our tour, on its 10th stage we entered the magical realm of Vallaccia, a quiet and little known corner of the Fassa Dolomites. Here climbing achievements bear practically one signature, that of the Maffei - Frizzera - Leoni party from Rovereto. In the late '70s these faces, that until then had received little or no attention at all, became to them a sort of private playground where to test themselves and figure out increasingly daring routes.
The driving force of this team, as strong as it was humble, was undoubtedly the late Graziano "Feo" Maffei, whom we would like so much to have met, and who emerges from his friends' stories as an incurable romantic, charismatic and optimist beyond all reason.
Put a figure with the legendary physical endurance of Mariano Frizzera (not surprisingly dubbed by some the "Bonatti of the Dolomites"), and the natural talent of a climber like Paolo Leoni (nearly 70 and still climbing on the 8a, if you know what I mean...) next to Maffei, and you will have one of the most powerful climbing parties ever to roam the Monti Pallidi!
For our tour we chose to follow the "Via dei 5 Muri", quite representative of the class of its openers but less extreme than the nearby "Canto del Cigno" (Swan Song), and thus perhaps appealing to a larger number of repeaters.
If you climb to the base of these faces, do it on tiptoe and you will discover "a treasure chest", as Graziano Maffei happened to say.
Happy climbing!


Click here to open the technical report in pdf format

 

Access: starting from the village of Pozza di Fassa enter Val S. Nicolò and go up to the bridge near the Soldanella restaurant, where you can park. From here, follow the signs of the SAT 615 path to the Zeni camp (first stretch along a forest road, then junction to the right). The Piramide Armani face is right in front of the camp (5min). The route starts on a section full of holes, just right of a large dihedron (2 cords visible). From the valley, 1.40h.

Return:
from the pyramid top descend into the rear channel with an equipped abseil onto the right edge (25m). Go up the edge and then across grassy ledges and other channels (some ups and downs - cairns and path traces) in the direction of Torre di Mezzaluna. One last channel (diff. 3) allows you to go straight down to the scree coming down from Forcella Vallaccia and get back to the camp (45min).



You may also like ...

62 results

18th Outing: 24 August – Il Canto del Magnificat

Via " Il Canto del Magnificat" ("Magnificat" Route)→ Sass Pordoi...

Ferrata Kaiserjager - Col Ombert

Kaiserjager - Col Ombert Ferrata

The Kaiserjäger Ferrata at Col Ombert, in Val San Nicolò...

Catinaccio,  Passo Santner equipped route

Catinaccio, Passo Santner equipped route

19th Outing: 31 August – Prigionieri di Bisanzio

"Prigionieri di Bisanzio" ("Prisoners of Bysantium" --> Cima del...

5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss

Via "Battisti-Weiss" ("Battisti-Weiss" Route) to the Spiz dele Roe de...

Gabrielli ferrata

Long hiking route with a kind of ferrata interlude given by the short...

U. Bozzetto – Monte Zeledria equipped trail

U. Bozzetto – Monte Zeledria equipped trail

An equipped trail with a few exposed sections but on the whole quite...

“G. Bertotti al Chegul” equipped trail

“G. Bertotti al Chegul” equipped trail

Small didactic Ferrata suitable for all those who want to approach...

Monte Albano equipped route

 Livio Brentari equipped trail

Livio Brentari equipped trail

The Livio Brentari equipped trail represents one of the segments of...

9th Outing: 3 July - Via Hilde

Via "Hilde" ("Hilde" route) at Pilastro Konrad → Ombretta...

Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Firm feet and a head for heights to enjoy a spectacular equipped trail

Monte Roen Ferrata

An easy and panoramic equipped trail, ideal for those who are...

14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza

Via "Elisir di Giovinezza" ("Elixir of Youth" Route) → Brenta...

Mora – Pellegrini equipped trail

Mora – Pellegrini equipped trail

An easy equipped trail running along the scenic ridge between Cima...

17th Outing: 18 August - Via Lucia Pia

Via "Lucia Pia" ("Lucia Pia" Route --> Torre delle Val Perse...

18th Outing: 24 August – Il Canto del Magnificat

Via " Il Canto del Magnificat" ("Magnificat" Route)→ Sass Pordoi → Sella Group(length 1000m / diff. 9- / opened by N. Tondini and R....

Read more ...
Ferrata Kaiserjager - Col Ombert

Kaiserjager - Col Ombert Ferrata

The Kaiserjäger Ferrata at Col Ombert, in Val San Nicolò (Val di Fassa), stands out for its difficulty and the striking environment, one...

Read more ...
Catinaccio,  Passo Santner equipped route

Catinaccio, Passo Santner equipped route

Read more ...

19th Outing: 31 August – Prigionieri di Bisanzio

"Prigionieri di Bisanzio" ("Prisoners of Bysantium" --> Cima del Conte --> Pale di S.Martino (length 300m / diff. 6B / opened by Manolo and P....

Read more ...

5th Outing: 2 June - Battisti - Weiss

Via "Battisti-Weiss" ("Battisti-Weiss" Route) to the Spiz dele Roe de Ciampiè(length 400m, diff. 6+ and A1 / opened by G. Battisti and T....

Read more ...

Gabrielli ferrata

Long hiking route with a kind of ferrata interlude given by the short but nontrivial Giulio Gabrielli ferrata

Read more ...
U. Bozzetto – Monte Zeledria equipped trail

U. Bozzetto – Monte Zeledria equipped trail

An equipped trail with a few exposed sections but on the whole quite easy

Read more ...
“G. Bertotti al Chegul” equipped trail

“G. Bertotti al Chegul” equipped trail

Small didactic Ferrata suitable for all those who want to approach this type of sport

Read more ...

Monte Albano equipped route

Read more ...
 Livio Brentari equipped trail

Livio Brentari equipped trail

The Livio Brentari equipped trail represents one of the segments of the fantastic Via delle Bocchette

Read more ...

9th Outing: 3 July - Via Hilde

Via "Hilde" ("Hilde" route) at Pilastro Konrad → Ombretta (length 250m/ diff. 6C / opened by E. Boldrin, G. Damian and A. Grisenti in 2006)

Read more ...
Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Gustavo Vidi Via Ferrata – Brenta Dolomites

Firm feet and a head for heights to enjoy a spectacular equipped trail

Read more ...

Monte Roen Ferrata

An easy and panoramic equipped trail, ideal for those who are starting out

Read more ...

14th Outing: 29 July - Elisir di Giovinezza

Via "Elisir di Giovinezza" ("Elixir of Youth" Route) → Brenta Alta → Central Brenta Group (length 600m / diff. 6+ / opened by D....

Read more ...
Mora – Pellegrini equipped trail

Mora – Pellegrini equipped trail

An easy equipped trail running along the scenic ridge between Cima Caset and Monte Corno

Read more ...

17th Outing: 18 August - Via Lucia Pia

Via "Lucia Pia" ("Lucia Pia" Route --> Torre delle Val Perse --> Central Brenta Group(length 320m / diff. 6+ and A1 / opened by M.Furlani and...

Read more ...

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering

0 results

Mountaineering